Clutch action?

minajs · Post by **minajs** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 4:35 pm

Hello all you owners of 50'ies bikes,
How good are your clutches? The gears on my 1955 Model 20 changes well enough up and down, but when things start to get critical such as when coming to an abrubt halt in second or third gear at one of those cursed traffic lights which always turn red at the sight of you, I have great difficulty in getting the thing back into neutral - at least some very unpleasant noises leave the clutch when I try to. Don't know if this is what to be expected from such fifty year old gearbox/clutches as I have never ridden somebody elses bike and so have nothing to compare with. My old Royal Enfield Constellation had a sort of a short-cut-pedal which would set it back into neutral without having to pass through the gears, I really miss that (the pedal, not the Enfield). Any comments?

Dick Hobart · Post by **Dick Hobart** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 7:04 pm

To be quite honest, Michael, unless I can nick it into neutral as I coast to a halt then I don't bother. I know it's bad practice to be stationary with the clutch disengaged but Burman clutches are so well made they'll not come to any harm. The later AMC box is a different proposition altogether and snicks into neutral beautifully at rest although I've never found the AMC clutch as good as the Burman ones. The neutral finder on the 50's RE's was indeed a great device. Best regards - Dick.

itma · Post by **itma** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 7:11 pm

sounds to me like a typical case of clutch drag, your Royal Enfield had that pedal because of its albion gearbox which is a pretty poor effort.

nrbgarda · Post by **nrbgarda** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 8:40 pm

I too have the same problem as minajs on my 1955 G3LS (and also on my 1956 BSA B31 even after fitting new clutch plates) and would like to know where the problem lies and what is the solution. Dick H, it's relieving to read your post, but a more permanent solution would be preferable particularly with traffic getting denser, and the number of traffic lights and their 'stop' duration increasing. Anyone with a cure?? Naozar R. Garda, Bangalore, India.

lolski · Post by **lolski** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 9:32 pm

if it is clutch drag i cured mine by ajusting the pressure plate so it runs true by pulling the clutch lever in and kicking the the kick start and adjustinging the springs in or out so it runs square ,rather than adjusting the springs by the book. hope this is of some help
regards Laurence

lawrence · Post by **lawrence** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:12 pm

quote:
if it is clutch drag i cured mine by ajusting the pressure plate so it runs true by pulling the clutch lever in and kicking the the kick start and adjustinging the springs in or out so it runs square ,rather than adjusting the springs by the book. hope this is of some help
regards Laurence

This is essential but also the clutch needs to be set up properly.

The clutch pressure plate adjustment is quite critical for a good action as it works on a cam and if not set up correctly will result in a heavy clutch action. Correct method is to slacken the cable adjuster at the gearbox right off. Ideally also take the cable out of the clutch lever on the handlebar. Then screw the pressure plate centre screw in as far as it will go until resistance is felt and then back it off one complete turn before locking it with the nut. Then refit the cable to the lever and adjust the cable with the adjuster on the gearbox to give about 2mm free play at the lever. That should give you a nice smooth easy clutch.

Search forum is excellent for this sort of standard enquiry, just make sure you have selected 'any date' as default is 'last 30 days'

TommoT · Post by **TommoT** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:15 pm

...can honestly say, this is not a problem on my 1956 G80S with B52 box. Try for experiment's sake to take all slack out of the clutch cable, and pull the lever completely in, till it touches the handlebar. If the problem persists, you must investigate clutch action further. Don't forget to reestablish cable slack.

56G80S · Post by **56G80S** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:22 pm

I also don't currently have a problem with my 56 G80S. One of the three wise men (Biscuit, itma or Don, can't remember which) has prevously said exactly the same as Lawrence. The adjustment isn't about the cable.

Hope it's worked out for you.

Johnny B

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:08 am

Just as a refresher.
There are two adjustments, the cable adjuster at the gear box end, and one in the clutch spring pressure plate. To adjust, slacken cable adjuster at gearbox end as far as possible, ensuring that the cam plate, ( the bit you push back) is pushed back. Nip round to the near side of the bike, the clutch dome cover may have a small inspection plate in the centre, the whole dome may be removeable, or worse case scenario the whole outer chaincase may need to be removed. On your model, the dome should be removeable, but who knows what may have happened over the years?. Having done whatever to gain access to the pressure plate, slacken off the centre locknut and screw the centre thrust cup in until it lightly contacts the push rod, undo half a turn and lock with the nut, ensuring the thrust cup does not turn. Nipping back to the offside adjust the cable to give 1/8" to 3/16" play at the lever. Unless the ball ramps are badly worn, this should do the trick.

Important, the cable adjuster is just that, to adjust free play at the lever, it is NOT to adjust the clutch.
'

deshollier · Post by **deshollier** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:55 pm

Can manage all that, except for the nipping back from one side of the bike to the other - will a stately stroll suffice?