AJS & Matchless Owners Club

Hi,
firstly sorry if i have repeated a previous request on this, I have a late 1966 build 250 CSR, the clutch tends to drag regardless of setting the pushrod and springs exactly as per manuals. I noticed that the layout of plates seems to be unlike what i have seen on previous layouts from Paul @barnfarther powerpiont presentation , so i have as follows, inner to outer --
I would be most appreciative if someone can advise, if this is correct or not, ( image attached )

Thick steel plate 043342 ( chamfer at back )
Double sided friction plate
plain toothed plate,
Double sided friction plate
plain toothed plate
Double sided friction plate
plain toothed plate
Single sided friction plate
Cover

It's a long time since I had the 1966 14 CSR and wish I still had it.

How you have these looks wrong to me. I did have the clutch off as I acquired a spare gearbox and did a refurb/replacement. There is usually a plain plate under the pressure plate (cover). Someone with more recent experience and/or time to check will correct me if I'm wrong. Off-hand I'd say if a fifth plain plate won't fit there's something wrong.

Using a wobbly memory, there differences between the late CSR and the other 250's, with some overlaps with 350's (?).

Good luck.

Johnny B

PS and I make no apology for making the reminder to keep the gearbox oil right up to the oval plate!

You cannot have a friction plate running against the 3 spring pressure plate as it will always drag. So one has to assume the first friction plate is a single sided bearing against the alloy pressure plate, if not that's the issue.

Thanks,ajscomboman, the first friction plate is one a sided version . So your assumption is spot on. I looked at the PowerPoint slides that are on the forum and although it works but has drag it doesn't match up to any of the versions shown.
It just seems near impossible to find an definitive layout for these last CSR clutches

Plenty of info here: http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Workshop ... models.pdf
Dave

Hi Dave, I have this manual as the original version, sadly it doesn't explain the later 250 CSR lightweight clutch plate layout

Looks correct to me, mine is the same set up, you might benefit from checking that the plain plates are completely flat (glass plate and emery paper) and the centre has no deep indents causing the plates to bind, also make sure the chain case oil is sae 40 or less. They always drag a little bit anyway due to the play in the housing bearings and other associated wear in the system. Do check to see that the clutch centre is firmly attached to the shaft and is concentric, worn cush drive rubbers can cause all sorts of grief too.

A slightly worn clutch spider/centre can cause binding on the sleeve gear, the stop wears depending on which type you have, there are 2 subject to the 4 types of main shaft. Nothing easy with a L/W clutch!

http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Tra ... utches.pdf

If you use the link above I think you will see the plates you have maybe wrong? If you have a duplex set up there could be a plate missing or an incorrect plate installed.
Hope this may help.

I've got 2 G2s, a 63 CSR and a 59G2 and I am pretty sure both the clutches are assembled as you have shown, I will check tomorrow. I have found in the past clutch drag can be caused by burrs on the dogs of the plates catching on either the center hub spline or the outer cage slots IYSWIM. Gentle action with a file can help a lot.