I'm thinking of making my own wiring for the 3GL I'm working on and currently piecing bits together. I have the wiring diagram but I have no old wiring at all on bike, so nothing to work on
Does anyone have exact lengths of each wire needed and how they should be routed along bike pls?
I don't know of anyone who has recorded the lengths of their home-made looms. I've dealt with commercial loom makers who have a template board upon which they lay out the wires so you'll probably have to make up yours on the bike wire by wire then sheathe it. The one for your bike is very basic so should be pretty simple to make. I can only advise that the main loom comes from the headlamp and along the frame top tube under the tank, branching off as necessary. On my bikes the wiring to the rear lamp is clipped inside/underneath the mudguard. It probably won't be shown on your wiring diagram but I strongly advise fitting a 10amp inline fuse in either one of the main battery leads.
Club spares supply a variety of looms but you have to be an AMOC paid-up member to order one or any other spares.
See here: https://www.amoc-parts.com/store/comers ... tegory=118
'There is a tide in the affairs of men
Which taken at the flood............'
Wiring a bike like the AMC heavyweights isn't as daunting as you may think. I've made the harnesses for all three of mine, plus a couple of Meriden Triumphs. I fitted nonstandard parts like electronic ignition (on the Triumphs), solid state rectifier/regulators or dynamo regulators and also turn indicators on the AMC machine, so buying a ready made harness was not a lot of use. I tend not to use the old rubber covered bullet connectors as I've found that they tend to corrode quickly. I use gold plated multi-pin connectors as used on modern machines. But then again, I ride my machines, not trailer them about to shows, so reliability takes priority over originality. I don't use the frame or any other tin-ware for the ground return. All ground return is by cable direct to the battery. It wasn't Joe Lucas that was the problem with failed electrics, it was the vehicle manufacturers that used the frame/bodywork with rusty connections as part of the circuit. All the necessary cables and connectors are available readily available. Work logically and you'll be ok, I'm sure.