solved, finally I found the way the spring enter in the pedal mechanism.
The hole for the spring in the pedal, was covered from new paint
Model 30, '56 - engine studs
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GBM
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Brake rear pedal:
solved, finally I found the way the spring enter in the pedal mechanism.
The hole for the spring in the pedal, was covered from new paint
solved, finally I found the way the spring enter in the pedal mechanism.
The hole for the spring in the pedal, was covered from new paint
-
GBM
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Dave, Spriddler,
may I ask your help to identify the bolt that fix the magneto to crankcase ?
(the red line) /Giovanni
may I ask your help to identify the bolt that fix the magneto to crankcase ?
(the red line) /Giovanni
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dave16mct
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
The bolt is 1 1/16" X 5/16" x 26, part number 000365.
Dave
Dave
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Duncan
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Hi Giovanni, do you have a parts list its on page 14.
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Duncan, Dave,
great support!
I was searching in AMOC parts 014779, lock washer, but no result.
Do you have an idea on kind of lock washer is this part?
On AMOC the same for 140074, plain washer
/Giovanni
great support!
I was searching in AMOC parts 014779, lock washer, but no result.
Do you have an idea on kind of lock washer is this part?
On AMOC the same for 140074, plain washer
/Giovanni
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dave16mct
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Originally a star washer was used, but any 5/16" lock washer will do.
Dave
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Dave,
looking the part list seems no protection from oil release at magneto retaining bolt (000365).
I am wrong?
/Giovanni
looking the part list seems no protection from oil release at magneto retaining bolt (000365).
I am wrong?
/Giovanni
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dave16mct
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Nothing leaks from there, but have fun with the dynamo seal!
Dave
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
Dave,
you scare me on the dynamo... any suggestion to do it once?
/Giovanni
you scare me on the dynamo... any suggestion to do it once?
/Giovanni
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Groily
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Re: Model 30, '56 - engine studs
viewtopic.php?p=251641&hilit=dynamo+oil ... in#p251641
This and other similar previous posts might help Giovanni.
It is a known weakness.
Somebody else said recently on here that they had used the similar gasket for a Triumph, which is a bit thinner than the AMC seal, and it seemed to work.
Personally, I am resigned to having to revisit these seals every so often - especially if the bikes are used hard. You will see a light mist of oil on the front of the timing side crankcase on many twins after a good run; in some cases a proper trickle of oil. But some people's perseverance pays off and theirs remain oil tight. I am at the 'light mist' stage on my 500, and - praise be, I'm oil tight for now on my 650.
In this area, it is important that the dynamo oil seal is in good condition and that the steel collar it sits on, on the shaft, is also good. Otherwise, oil gets into the dynamo, and then gets out again quite quickly, often making a nasty mess or even stopping it charging. (Sometimes making it look as if the crankcase joint is leaking just under the dynamo, which is the thing you really do NOT want!)
This and other similar previous posts might help Giovanni.
It is a known weakness.
Somebody else said recently on here that they had used the similar gasket for a Triumph, which is a bit thinner than the AMC seal, and it seemed to work.
Personally, I am resigned to having to revisit these seals every so often - especially if the bikes are used hard. You will see a light mist of oil on the front of the timing side crankcase on many twins after a good run; in some cases a proper trickle of oil. But some people's perseverance pays off and theirs remain oil tight. I am at the 'light mist' stage on my 500, and - praise be, I'm oil tight for now on my 650.
In this area, it is important that the dynamo oil seal is in good condition and that the steel collar it sits on, on the shaft, is also good. Otherwise, oil gets into the dynamo, and then gets out again quite quickly, often making a nasty mess or even stopping it charging. (Sometimes making it look as if the crankcase joint is leaking just under the dynamo, which is the thing you really do NOT want!)