Engine assembly

[Steve]

Well that's excellent Nev now you've gone and thrown a spanner in the works, here am I thinking the last thing I should be doing is revving it, and now you've telling me to keep the revs up.
Maybe I should stick to walking

It's difficult to quantify 'revving'.
I don't mean giving it the beans! Just don't let it labour.

Yeah, that's a better explanation. Phew had me worried there for a while. Hope you can make it to the meet

[SPRIDDLER]

I've just had a thought and to save me going back through the whole thread.............has it actually been rebored and a new piston fitted as I can't remember all the details now.

[Steve]

I've just had a thought and to save me going back through the whole thread.............has it actually been rebored and a new piston fitted as I can't remember all the details now.

Yes rebored new piston and two new bearings near side crankshaft

[SPRIDDLER]

Yes rebored new piston and two new bearings near side crankshaft

I did remember this thread starting off with the main bearings/dished housing problem but I haven't found any mention of a rebore.
It's very tempting to hold on to top gear with our soft tuned long stroke plonkers. I've often said that if it wasn't for roundabouts and traffic lights I could ride my 350 all the way to the Pyrenees in top gear (which I've done few times, although not all the way in top gear).

Resting in Pyrenees.JPG

[ajscomboman]

When talking to Ken De Groome about running in my CS motors he replied, as a guide, "how long did you think it took me going down Bray Hill after a rebuild in the pits?" He's not a believer in being too soft on a motor. I didn't quite give mine the beans but didn't labour or gently potter either and they've been fine. Until the pushrod seals decided to swell and partially block the oil feed to the tappets!

[Steve]

Yes rebored new piston and two new bearings near side crankshaft

I did remember this thread starting off with the main bearings/dished housing problem but I haven't found any mention of a rebore.
It's very tempting to hold on to top gear with our soft tuned long stroke plonkers. I've often said that if it wasn't for roundabouts and traffic lights I could ride my 350 all the way to the Pyrenees in top gear (which I've done few times, although not all the way in top gear).

Resting in Pyrenees.JPG

Right got it no chugging around in top

[Steve]

When talking to Ken De Groome about running in my CS motors he replied, as a guide, "how long did you think it took me going down Bray Hill after a rebuild in the pits?" He's not a believer in being too soft on a motor. I didn't quite give mine the beans but didn't labour or gently potter either and they've been fine. Until the pushrod seals decided to swell and partially block the oil feed to the tappets!

Hi Rob
Now I'm liking the cut of this Kens jib.
Although as I have watched the TT many times on the TV I am aware that Bray Hill is part of the course, and as such that means Ken is a racer and racing engines are frequently rebuilt hence no need for running in. So between yourself and Nev it indicates rev don't labour but not full throttle.

[SPRIDDLER]

I bet you were still in short trousers if you're old enough to remember the 'Running in - Please pass' stickers in a car's rear window. I do, and it was also a status symbol, demonstrating that you could afford a new car or a new engine.
Such were the manufacturing tolerances back in the day which was evident from an interview with the designer of the 350 and 500 H/W engines with regard to matching the fit of components.
See the full fascinating (to me) interview here:

http://archives.jampot.dk/editorial/Roa ... _Baker.pdf

Component fit.JPG

Component fit 2.JPG

[Steve]

Yes I remember the running in please pass, it's funny that you mention it actually because as I was riding around today I was thinking I wonder if I should have a sign on my back saying that thanks for the interview that was quite interesting.

[Steve]

Just a quick question for Chris
Would any 6 volt coil work ok with the Thorspark unit or would it need similar readings to the one supplied.

The one supplied is working fine it's just that the ht lead is a push fit and during the time trying to get it working it popped out and I'm thinking if I could get one with a screw in fitting then there's no chance of it popping out when riding. As there's a fair amount of vibration etc when riding. And the thought of having to remove the tank at the side of the road if it should come out is not something I would welcome.