The higher the better (to a point). I'd like to move the lever up to the throttle grip as close as possible so the brake will line up.
Brian
Thank you! I've ordered BAF 3/16 and I'm crossing my fingers. Those specs seemed to be the closest to the existing screw.Reynard24 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 08, 2022 9:23 am If you have original levers the screws should be 1BA but some pattern types use M5. If the choke lever was originally a “stand alone” type i.e. it was fitted with its own clamp, these tend to sit lower on the bar than those that were part of the true combined lever. There are also different sizes of throttle clamps too.
I've done that as much as I dare however the main reason for the angle of the assembly is that it still is slightly on the handlebar bend.
simple may be Spriddler but its going to be a lot more expensive than two screws and a bit of packing!
But probably safer. Packing the top part of the bracket will stop it from clamping around the bar evenly and perhaps lead to it slipping. Just the sort of place where a bodge aint needed. Bending the lever was mentioned earlier and seems the better option to me.
That was also my thinking. It's windy, dark and still tipping with rain here so with now't much else to do I'll elaborate.......Greybeard wrote: ↑Tue Nov 08, 2022 12:23 pm
But probably safer. Packing the top part of the bracket will stop it from clamping around the bar evenly and perhaps lead to it slipping. Just the sort of place where a bodge aint needed. Bending the lever was mentioned earlier and seems the better option to me.
Exactly the same on my '54 G3lS and it's not running rich, but I don't tend to ride when it's bitterly cold except twice in the past fifteen years in snow and ice on the section's New Year's Day runs. Daft or what?You could of course remove the choke altogether, or leave it fully open and just ignore it - Ive never found one necessary on any of my old bikes. A tickle to start from cold and theyre away.
I won't labour the point Brian because I've never done it, but I visualise that with a shim in the top half of a 7/8" clamp not all of its inside surface will fit snugly against the 'bar as in effect the internal diameter/radius of the top half of the clamp will be reduced (assuming it will fit over the 'bar at all). As I mentioned earlier, let us know your result.BrianDowning wrote: ↑Tue Nov 08, 2022 3:59 pm The shim would be rounded to the shape of the handlebar, no loss of grip.