AJS & Matchless Owners Club

G3L1946 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 07, 2021 4:29 pm So, new rod, dowel and NOW set of bolts!
Steve

welcome to my world!

Hi

Wear like that shouldn't occur under normal conditions, it is accelerated by a lack of play in the operating mechanism. When you rebuild the clutch make sure you have free play at both the push rod and handlebar lever.

Regards Mick

Hi both,

The clutch, when I first examined it, had a ball either end of the rod and an additional spacing washer ( already discussed in past posting ) . It will now be reassembled as per the manual with new rod, dowel and balls ( three in mechanism ). Ah, well, I got to see a part of the mechanism I was not expecting to touch! Those cover screws must have been there since ‘55! They need replacing too.

Thanks,

Steve

Hi all,

After fitting new rod, new dowel and all appropriate balls I was able to achieve a more acceptable result ( see photo, sufficient amount of nut on threaded end ). However, still a problem achieving correct adjustment. When pulling in clutch a clacking sound came from the clutch basket area. Far too much play at lever end a lots of brass adjuster exposed at box end. However, by readjustment of the five springs from the recommended four turns out to three, success! Appears to work perfectly, no clack noise, able to adjust cable correctly too.
Maybe my initial four turns were in fact five as I may have over tightened in the first instance?
It may indicate that the springs have lost their original strength? Im sure this relatively minor deviation is acceptable. Unless I’ve committed a cardinal sin I’m inclined to leave it be!

Regards,

Steve

if it works leave it be! Now to highjack the thread. Anyone else noticed that the clutch starts to slip when all the oil has leaked out of the chaincase. I assume the oil helps cooling the plates. Happened on my rather leaky 350 a few times lately.

My sentiments entirely!

Steve