WET SUMPING VALVE

moley · Post by **moley** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 6:11 pm

I know this subject again! , but i just thought i'd tell you about my experiece.. me g12 sumps after three - four weeks of idleness so i thought id fit a brit-tie valve..i fitted it and it cut down the return side by i would think 50% therefore i can only presume the feed is being reduced by 50%..sod that, chucked valve out of garage (an olympic disc thrower would have been proud of that chuck)and with fresh oil pipes im back to a good flow of oil..... perhaps it would have been ok with a reduced amount of oil but the difference to me looked to much to risk! i might try one of the adverts in the jampot..... cheers andy

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 7:48 pm

The valve produced by Mr Dove has a through way equal to the bore of the tap/cock. I fitted one on expert advice and it works ok, the only trouble is - my G11 does not wet sump!! Remember though the valve is not fail safe, if the earthing wire breaks or comes off you can start the engine with the valve closed.

CR · Post by CR » Fri Feb 11, 2005 8:29 pm

If you give your pumps complete with backplate to that nice man Ray Spencer (ads in the Jampot) he'll rebuild them completely, including new gears, and even replace the bleed (and if fitted pressure relief) valve in the back plate. Suprisingly the oil then stays forever in the tank unless the engine is running.

The factory NEVER made them this good and with no tap in the line you'll not follow the many who've remembered to turn it on just that mile too late.

lawrence · Post by **lawrence** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 10:55 pm

I must be missing something on this wet-sumping. My 31csr gets ridden most days but if I leave it a week or so the oil has wet-sumped. However within a few minutes of starting it, it has a full oil tank again. What is the problem?

Lawrence [}:)]

itma · Post by **itma** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 11:16 pm

......people love a complicated answer to a simple problem???

are you any relation to the brownhill road catford mob, andrew?

ajsless · Post by **ajsless** » Fri Feb 11, 2005 11:22 pm

Not sure which models we are refering to here but my 1964 G80 with Norton oil pump (was the Norton pump any better than the AMC type) wet sumps terribly. In one day a pint can end up in the sump. Yet running it is perfectly OK with a good oil supply going to the head aswell. The problem with wet sumping is the extent to which it happens. I often cannot start the bike after a days rest due to the excessive drag on the flywheels caused by the oil. Only solution is to drain the engine and thats also a drag! Oddly, the pump was fine for the first 500 miles after engine rebuild then one day it suddenly started this problem. Does anybody know someone specialising in Norton pump refurbishment? John

Rohan B. · Post by **Rohan B.** » Sat Feb 12, 2005 1:17 am

John,
Any sudden change in your oil pump should probably be investigated immediately. It could have blown the paper gasket, or had the conical rubber oil seal displaced in some way.

Norton pumps are not that hard to do yourself ( unless it is seriously damaged inside for some reason ). Norton oil pumps have brass end plates which attach with 4 screws. All you do is remove the pump, remove the screws and flat down the brass end plates using fine wet-n-dry on a glass surface. When the figure-8 marks are gone, the pump is like new again (unless something has gone through the pump and damaged the gear teeth). One end plate is harder to do than the other, think the feed side is usually the accessible end.. This procedure is described in Norton manuals.

hopethishelps,
Rohan.

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Sat Feb 12, 2005 9:25 am

As a relatively recent convert to motorcycling, weren't these bikes normally used for daily transport and thus hardly ever left to lie idle for weeks? Don't many people use oils that are thinner when cold than those available at the time of manufacture? If so, it is not surprising oil leaks through.

Surely the best answer is just run them up once a week and fill the tank back up..............and the worst is to put any potential blockage between tank and pump............

regards
Charles

Rohan B. · Post by **Rohan B.** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 10:45 pm

Saw this posted on another list
<http://garagecompany.com/bike_pic2004/y ... _rr_10.jpg>
Just watch that the tap doesn't vibrate to the off position ?

It has been mentioned in many places that some bikes seem to wetsump, and others seem not to - even from new. Bit annoying to have a new bike that smokes on startup until it empties the sump back into the tank ? And have the engine run dry until some oil gets there...

moley · Post by **moley** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 7:56 am

hello ken

no i am no relation of catford crew!

Hiya Lawrence, the problem with wetsumping is if you leave the bike for three weeks a lot of the oil has drained into the sump then when it reaches a level it pours into the primary cases which as well as draining of the surplus oil from the primaries you dont want oil in the clutch.... im happy to hear youre using the csr.

cheers andy.