G5 Rebuild Questions

[ditchweed]

thanks rangy65 been looking at getting a rear rack from andrew so will get the spindle at the same time,
ozmadman from looking at your clutch not sure if my plates are very worn or just wrong they look like the ones with ears would never have filled the gap completely they can move around quite a bit in their slots, also when i apply the clutch in gear it doesn't roll smoothly forward, is this usual for these bikes? made a video of it her but doesn't seem to get enough space between the plates,

[Ozmadman]

The ears on the metal plates should be a close fit in the slots in the clutch basket, mine were so close that I had to try each one in different slots to get a smooth clutch action. I can't understand how new clutch metal plates are a loose fit unless the slots in the basket are badly worn or the previous owner has filed them for some reason. Can't give you any clue about the clutch plates? you are kicking it over with the clutch lever pulled in is that in neutral? as these bikes have to be in neutral to turn the engine over you can't start them in gear with just the lever pulled in. Normally if it doesn't pull away smoothly it is either caused by buckled metal plates which shouldn't be a problem as yours are new or the clutch not opening and closing equally which can be sorted by adjusting the separate springs to get an even lift. if you have a lot of play between the "ears" and the slots in the basket you may get some snatch as you apply the clutch

[ditchweed]

my plates aren't new and theres a lot of play between them and the basket, looks like i'll have to go get new castellated plates and try them out, and then reassemble with new plates and see if that helps they might be slightly buckled which i guess would cause it to not be smooth, wasn't trying to start it just roll it forward in gear with the clutch applied to show how stiff it is.

[Rangy65]

Hi Ditchweed, have a look at some of my post's about clutch's & plates. I would order just one new metal plate for comparison ( cheap). I guess you need to discover if as Paul has suggested its been modified.
I went to see Gary & Co at Kettering as the new double sided plates are 1mm thinner than the old plates. ( so was Andrew Engineering too) What i did to make this up was fit and extra steel plate next to the first dished plate and then a single sided friction plate last. This is the same set up in the workshop manual for the scrambler CS model.
I have just got mine running ( went first kick!!) but as i am still painting the tank i haven't run it on the road, although i have been up and down the gears with the bike on the stand and it seems to work.

Good luck

Steve

[ditchweed]

thanks steve going to go down to russel motors in clapham tomorrow and compare their clutch plates to mine, weirdly when i put 5 plates in my basket they seem too big so interested to compare their plates to min to see if theres a difference hopefully can get it sorted tomorrow, also if you apply the clutch when the bike is in gear but not running, can you easily push it forward/backward, when i tried this as in the video its pretty stiff to move the bike around.
Cheers
Archie

[ditchweed]

ok so problem solved seems its the same problem alot of people have had on here, clutch plates being radically different sizes, heres a picture of the old plates and the new ones, old ones were too big new ones are too small, think it might need a single sided friction plate on the end so they reach the edge of the basket, for now have just put Another one of the old metal plates in on the end so it goes stepped, friction, metal, friction metal friction, metal, friction, metal, metal. will go back down to russell motors and get a single sided, but seems strange as the manual suggests its just 4 metal 4 friction and a stepped plate. alot smoother now though when its in gear and clutch applied it rolls forward nicely.

also should there be a ball bearing in the mechanism, read somewhere that theres one between the push rod and the lever on the side the cable attaches to.
Thanks

[Ozmadman]

also should there be a ball bearing in the mechanism, read somewhere that there's one between the push rod and the lever on the side the cable attaches to.
Thanks

Yes, you will need to unscrew that domed shaped cover that houses the clutch lever in the box where the cable attaches. It is held in place by a threaded ring which you can undo by tapping it round with a screwdriver in the slots. the ball bearing is in there for the end of the clutch rod to bear against. The domed cover has a slot in it and there should be a pin or something in the casting so that when you put it back the domed cover and therefore the clutch lever remains at the correct angle. Glad you got the clutch sorted, one way or another!!

[ditchweed]

does anyone know a good supplier for seat foam for a g5? or something close i can shape to the right size?

[Ozmadman]

does anyone know a good supplier for seat foam for a g5? or something close i can shape to the right size?

http://rk-leighton.co.uk/index.html

[poweller996]

Thanks for all your help everyone all sorted now.