AJS & Matchless Owners Club

Everyone seems to missed Ande point about running out of adjustment on the cable, Ande you put five sixteenth washers under the mushroom headed pins in the brake shoes to pack out the brake shoes, make sure you use same thickness washers each side, takes a bit of trial and error to get it right. Of course don’t forget to screw the adjuster back in before starting. Have fun. MikeM.

Sorry, it's been a while since I checked this.

I can't just flip my brake plate around to put the actuating arm much lower can I? No, it wouldn't be enough rotation to put the arm in a sensible place would it?

I must have the wrong lever at the handlebar. Or maybe the wrong hub/brakeplate as @Duncan reckons my brakeplate is 56-63 but my bike is (supposedly) a '55.

I ordered a "T419 CABLE FRONT BRAKE USE FOR 1948-56 ALL SINGLES; 1949-56 ALL TWINS -- USE FOR 013178"

Maybe what I want is a "T572 CABLE FRONT BRAKE; USE FOR 1958-59 ALL HEAVYWEIGHT SINGLE & TWINS, NOT 'WESTERN' HANDLEBARS."?

The Vandal wrote: ↑Mon May 01, 2023 5:56 pm ............Duncan reckons my brakeplate is 56-63 but my bike is (supposedly) a '55.

If it was manufactured after Sept 1st 1955 it will be a '56 model.

Hmmm, I suppose an option would be to shorten the existing cable and make my own end for it. I have a brazing torch so could make an end from brass or silver or are mechanically fixed ends a thing? I have a set up like that on a bicycle I own that has drum brakes.

Probably easier to fit an extra split ferrule to lengthen the outer a bit? Brazing heat is not good, as it makes cables brittle and weak. Has to be soldered really, preferably using a solder bath and a lot of preparatory cleaning of the Bakers Fluid variety.

Mechanically fixed ends, aka screw-on jobbies, are a thing - but wouldn't want one on a brake thanks very much. They squish the strands and I always reckon can cause breakage as opposed to braking. Lots to be seen here where I am, on brakes clutches and everything else, often using stainless steel wire which won't solder anyway - and my ticker misses a beat whenever anyone has to brake suddenly . . .
Emergencies only I reckon (and bicycles!) - and not sure if Mr Plod or a Dept of Transport person with gold braided hat would care for one much if one hove into view on a brake cable.

I'm with Groily on this...
I am happy to make up or shorten clutch / valve lifter / advance & retard cables and the like but not a brake cable.

I have had a clutch cable I made up fail and I really thought I had made a good job of it.

I don't know what tools you have... when I had the same issue with a front brake cable that was about 3/4" too long on the inner I made an extension to screw into the brake torque arm to effectively lengthen the outer, but was never really happy with it and removed it when I found a better fitting cable.

Mmmm yeah not the kinda thing you want to have anything other than 100% faith in is it?!

Will see what I can come up with or might just order up a different cable and see if it's any better.

Venhill will make you up a cable to your dimensions if you send them a sketch with the relevant data on.

Having said that, I generally use their stuff to make up my own cables. I use silver solder to attach brass nipples and I've never had one fail, or even come close to it.

@Pharisee what kind of heatsource are you using with your silver solder?

I have 39% silver solder and the flux etc that I use for bicycle framebuilding.

The Vandal wrote: ↑Sat May 06, 2023 11:48 am @Pharisee what kind of heatsource are you using with your silver solder?

I have 39% silver solder and the flux etc that I use for bicycle framebuilding.

For cable nipples, I use what is basically an Oxyturbo Turbo Set 90, but I have an adaptor and use MAPP gas as the fuel. For larger stuff, frames etc, I use oxy acetylene with Sifbronze brazing rods.