1958 G11 - Front Brake Judder

starfield181 · Post by **starfield181** » Sun Sep 16, 2012 4:53 pm

quote:
If the drum has been pulled out of round by the spokes when the wheel was rebuilt it can be rectified in the same way. If you can set your wheel up in a jig with a dial guage on the inside of the drum you'll be able to see where the drum is out of true and adjust the spokes accordingly. However I would recommend that you slacken off all of the spokes a bit first, get the drum and rim round and then work on getting the tension up. If your drum was true before the rebuild and is out of true now I would suggest that whoever rebuilt it didn't do a good job of evenly tensioning the spokes. I have built and rebuilt many wheels, including the full width hub AMC variety and these hubs are very solid and don't pull out of round easily, unlike some. The problem is that it is perfectly possible to tension a wheel so that the rim is perfectly true and have very uneven tension on the spokes. Good luck in sorting it out.

Ian

Thanks for the advice

Crafty · Post by **Crafty** » Sun Sep 16, 2012 6:26 pm

If you decide that the drum is out of round tell me I could possibly help. I am also in Wiltshire May the force be with you !

wilko · Post by **wilko** » Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:00 am

What's your crafty solution Crafty? A truck brake shop might be able to machine your drum with rim intact.Edited by - wilko on 17 Sep 2012 12:03:10 AM

dave16mct · Post by **dave16mct** » Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:05 am

A friend of mine can skim them in the lathe with the wheel intact. You have to take the tyre off though!

rex.webb · Post by **rex.webb** » Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:26 am

A friend of mine can skim them in the lathe with the wheel intact. You have to take the tyre off though!
We have a man near us who can do the same ?.
Sorry a long way from Wiltshire though .
Ride with CARE and LIVE LONG to ENJOY your Bikes and scooters.
Insured with Peter James.

Crafty · Post by **Crafty** » Mon Sep 17, 2012 6:59 pm

I skimmed mine with the tyre on.
All you need is some simple the kit which I made up and have coupled to my milling machine.

Crafty eh !

wilko · Post by **wilko** » Tue Sep 18, 2012 12:51 am

Aw, come on crafty, show us a pic!

Crafty · Post by **Crafty** » Tue Sep 18, 2012 2:05 pm

I have only just mastered putting my comments in writing. Now you want pictures !
If I had any I would find someone with brains to post them. Next time I skim or grind a drum I will do just that.

Bear with me !

starfield181 · Post by **starfield181** » Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:56 pm

Sorry to go quiet for a bit. Other issues to sort. Took the wheel out today. The linings look quite new and are not fully bedded in on one shoe. No corrosion or rust on drum butlots of dust which probably accounts for the squeaking. Nothing else obviously wrong. Could not measure for ovality, my callipers were not big enough for the job.

I checked the spoke tension as best I could and none seemed excessively tight compared to the rest. As a precaution I eased all of them about 1/8th turn, a tad more if they felt tighter than the neighbours. Wheel still spun true after this.

Checked fork legs whilst wheel was out, no trace of any play. Centred back plate on drum before tightening the clamp nut and re-assembled everything. Squeak now gone but need a test ride to see if its still juddering. If it is ( and frankly I cannot see that anything I have done so far would have got rid of it) then I will take Crafty up on his offer and could perhaps take some pics at the same time.

Peter

iandusud · Post by **iandusud** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 8:14 am

Peter, if you don't have a dial guage you could test for ovality using a datum. You could set your wheel up in the front fork with the brake plate off and rig up a pointer.

Ian