Any comments about the below would be greatfully recived.
I would like to clear the 50 plus year old grease our of my front full width hub without driving out the bearings and my be damaging them.
would this method work:-
remove circlips
pull out seals with self tappers
soften old grease with degreaser over a couple of hours
flush out with degreaser
flush out with petrol
leave petrol to evaporate
re pack with grease using finger or brush
pop in new seals
replace circlips
pump in a bit more grease using grease nipple
I cannot find the definitive part number for the seals and I have spent ages looking at the vast ammount of back data on the fourm and tech info as well as little parts drawings.
I really like to service every serviceable parts of my bikes before really using them properly. With this one I intent to explore Northern France over many weekends and day trips two up, starting as soon as poss as I have moved to within 10 mins ride to the port and want to make the mose of living here.
On another tack I have tried to optimise the brakes by having over size linings bonded to the shoes and then turning them to the correct dia. on the lathe when fitted to the back plates. I have shortened the trailing edge of the trailing shoe as championed by Mr Spriddler - this method was also shown to me by the owner of Panther Jolly's (Lompit vale Lewisham) some years ago and it works. I still feel I need more stopping power especially with my wife on the back and all of the camping gear loaded. I have several heart stopping situations as someone has stolen the stopping distance infront of me and then braked fast comming to a junction etc. Do you know of a twin leading wheel that can be modified to use or even a larger dia. front brake that I could lace in? I've seen the possibility of using fluid but cables are so much simpler on the side of the road.
Sorry for the long post and so many questions but I'm newish to these AMC bikes.
George
AJS 18 & 16
BMW R80 outfit
Re greasing front hub
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- TommoT
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Re greasing front hub
I think its an excellent idea, always good practice not to touch anything that works! "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" Maybe you could also use heat to liquify the grease. Btw. don't rely on the grease nipple, as far as I remember you will have to pump the entire bearing tunnel full of grease for it to reach the bearings.
Concerning the brake, I know that a BSA or Triumph hub from an early 60ies twin should work with only minor modification of the axle hole. Maybe someone will chime in with more specifics on this modification. I even think there is a description and a picture on this site in the Tech. Articles section, and pictures as wellEdited by - TommoT on 24 Oct 2011 6:01:14 PM
Concerning the brake, I know that a BSA or Triumph hub from an early 60ies twin should work with only minor modification of the axle hole. Maybe someone will chime in with more specifics on this modification. I even think there is a description and a picture on this site in the Tech. Articles section, and pictures as wellEdited by - TommoT on 24 Oct 2011 6:01:14 PM
TommoT
Ride Your Motorcycle As If Your Life Depended On It - Cos' It Does!
Ride Your Motorcycle As If Your Life Depended On It - Cos' It Does!
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Re greasing front hub
Sorry but what a waste of time and effort.
one of the reasons for removing the lot is to inspect the state of the races,; how would you know if there is a defect on one or more of them?
The hub does not need to be full of grease either, in fact if it is its more likely to seep out.
Forget the grease nipple.
If enough grease is packed around the actual bearing that's more than enough.
These bearings last for years and very high mileages.
The biggest enemy of them is over tightening them, and worst of all Jet washers.
Plus constantly removing them to interfere with them.
warm the hub and or use a press f you have access to one, they are not a tight fit, and if you think about the method of adjustment you will see why.
And as parting shot, do not use those new fangled cassette replacements unless you really really have to.Edited by - itma on 24 Oct 2011 8:07:09 PM
one of the reasons for removing the lot is to inspect the state of the races,; how would you know if there is a defect on one or more of them?
The hub does not need to be full of grease either, in fact if it is its more likely to seep out.
Forget the grease nipple.
If enough grease is packed around the actual bearing that's more than enough.
These bearings last for years and very high mileages.
The biggest enemy of them is over tightening them, and worst of all Jet washers.
Plus constantly removing them to interfere with them.
warm the hub and or use a press f you have access to one, they are not a tight fit, and if you think about the method of adjustment you will see why.
And as parting shot, do not use those new fangled cassette replacements unless you really really have to.Edited by - itma on 24 Oct 2011 8:07:09 PM
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Re greasing front hub
How about the taper bearings I've seen on e-bay recently, aren't these a replacement for AMC. Surely better than the cassette type, which I recall you weren't too impressed with, to say the least Ken.!
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Re greasing front hub
The modern taper bearings are rear wheel only , don't buy off ebay as they are over priced
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Re greasing front hub
I can understand the leave it alone centiment if you know your bike and have had it for years but this is quite new to me and I'm hoping to use it to explore France two up and want to have serviced / replaced all elderly sevice components. Along the way I will learn more about the AMC way of things. I've always run old vechicles cars and bikes, intially out of necessity but now days out of choice as I want to have an envolvement with my machines, and spend the money I save on other things.
Yup agree with the ban on pressure washers - the last owner of my R80 habitually washed it with one and when I took the front bearings down to inspect them the internals were a horror to behold.
Taper bearings on a solo bike are very lightly loaded (unless you put a sidecar in the bike) and are good for a million plus miles if grit and water are kept at bay.
Cheers
George
Yup agree with the ban on pressure washers - the last owner of my R80 habitually washed it with one and when I took the front bearings down to inspect them the internals were a horror to behold.
Taper bearings on a solo bike are very lightly loaded (unless you put a sidecar in the bike) and are good for a million plus miles if grit and water are kept at bay.
Cheers
George