ajs dd125-e5

pixie · Post by **pixie** » Tue Jun 07, 2011 4:03 pm

Hi everyone,

new to biking, just purchased a non runner ajs dd125 e5, has been stored but doesn't start. broken ht cap , now replaced and with 2 new spark plugs . still not firing. battery seems ok along with fuel and electrics. carb not cleaned out as yet. starter is clicking away when i pull clutch in as forward controls are broken. any advice?

bigwol · Post by **bigwol** » Wed Jun 08, 2011 2:28 am

Does it actually turn over? If all the starter does is click, then either the battery is flat or it's nipped up?

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:08 am

quote:
starter is clicking away
Welcome Pixie.
There isn't much info available on the modern Ajays so can only offer generic advice.
If the starter 'clicks' this can be as Bigwol says, but also can be due to a bad earth/dirty contacts in the starter circuit. The click is the starter relay/solenoid activating but because of dirty contacts or a bad earth insufficient current is passing to turn the starter motor.
A few words of explanation added later:
The starter motor requires a high current to turn it, which means using a heavy duty switch and thickish cables. Since you don't want thick cables at the handlebar switch the h/bar switch merely operates a relay, which will probably be fag packet size 'box-like' unit mounted remotely or 'piggy-packed' on top of the starter motor. The relay will have (at least)two thin wires (from the switch) and two relatively thicker wires. Ignore the thinner wires as it's the thicker wires, (one probably coming from the battery and the other going to the starter motor) which are failing since you already know that the thin wires are the o.k. as they are the ones producing the click in the relay. Check for corrosion of the connections at either end of the thick wires.
Sorry if the above is a bit long-winded but I'm not sure how much I need to explain...
The starter motor itself may also be u/s.
quote:
when i pull clutch in as forward controls are broken. any advice?

I am not clear what you mean here.
What do you mean by 'forward controls' and in what way are they 'broken'?
Edited by - SPRIDDLER on 08 Jun 2011 11:08:18 AM

rex.webb · Post by **rex.webb** » Fri Jun 10, 2011 8:51 am

HELLO !!!!!!!!!!!
Anyone there?.
Longing to hear from you.
Ride With CARE and LIVE LONG to ENJOY your BIKE.
No matter what the size.

pixie · Post by **pixie** » Wed Jun 15, 2011 11:53 pm

Hi again everyone,
AJS 125 DD E-5.

Bike still not starting, cleaned out twin cv carbs,(fuel was green in colour! in float chambers when emptied jets blocked etc.) Drained fuel tank and partially refilled. Checked electrics for bad earth / connections, seems ok. Replaced battery with new.
Engine is turning over but will not fire. Sparking ok, throttle ok,fuel circulating ok. Seems to be turning over correctly but won't fire up.

Any advice
Cheers
Pixie.

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:12 am

Hmm.
You need three things
1) Compression (Is there any?)
2)Fuel (in the cylinder)
3) A spark (at the right time.

Do the spark plugs look/smell wet with petrol after attempts to start it?
When you replaced the dist cap did you move/loosen/adjust anything else - either deliberately or inadvertantly?

quote: when i pull clutch in as forward controls are broken

Again - pls clarify...what are 'forward controls' and in what way are they 'broken'.
Are they switches, levers....C'mon, give us a clue.

pixie · Post by **pixie** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:00 am

cheers for the info spriddler.Spark plugs dry and ok. How do I check compression?. nothing disturbed or moved on dist cap. forward controls are gear shift and break pedal broken, however bike is in neutral.I believe that they are succeptable to being easily broken if bike falls over as they are alluminium.

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:49 am

quote:
Spark plugs dry and ok.

Generally, if you've been trying unsuccessfully to start an engine (and the valves were operating) the plugs will be 'wet' or at least glistening with unburnt petrol. Not always, but there should be some trace of unburned petrol on them.
Normally, in order to prove a point one would remove the plugs, tip a little (about a teaspoonful) of petrol into each cylinder, replace plugs without any delay and then try to start it. It should at least show some signs of firing.
quote: How do I check compression?.
By observing if there seems to be some 'pulsing' or resistance when turning on the starter. If you can put it into a gear and push it you should feel resistance as each cylinder comes onto compression, but if your broken gear lever prevents you from selecting a gear you could turn the engine on the starter with and without the plugs fitted. It should spin noticeably easier/faster when turned with the plugs removed and if you put a thumb/finger over the spark plug hole (whilst its turning over) you should feel pressure.
Can you get any history from the previous owner? He might say that "it just stopped" in which case it could be that the valves (or at least the inlet valve) are not operating. Unlikely, but we're on a bit of mystery tour here and can't rule anything out.
Your Profile's a bit shy, where are you?Edited by - SPRIDDLER on 16 Jun 2011 08:51:57 AMEdited by - SPRIDDLER on 16 Jun 2011 08:53:52 AM

pixie · Post by **pixie** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 11:44 am

Hi spriddler,
Thanks for your reply.
I have a haynes manual which as you can imagine at times drives you nuts.I have tried putting a teaspoon of petrol in and it does change the firing and almost starts.I have had it in gear and can feel resistance.Also when trying to start it I can feel the engine pulsating through both exhausts.I have had rocker cover off and everything on top looks pristine.
By the time I get it going I think I will be a qualified motorcycle mechanic at this rate.Its very frustrating to say the least.I live in lancashire.
cheers pixie.

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:15 pm

Well, at least it's firing - but if it won't continue to run it's likely to be a fuel problem.
Yes, the Haynes manual always shows everything to be very straightforward - even the spanners are smiling!
I'm out of my depth here as I have no knowledge whatever of the carb fitted to these bikes.
Normally a bike starts on a small amount of throttle on fuel via a small Pilot jet inside the carb which has very small hole and tiny diameter drillings in the body of the carb.
I can only suggest that you double check that all jets etc really are clear. This can be done by forcing a fluid through them - using the flexible spout/tube and a can of WD40 or similar helps.
It's all experience being gained the same way that most of us learned so don't despair