Wiring-Fuse

jim501 · Post by **jim501** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 11:05 am

Just my thoughts. Things to consider. A single 20A fuse in the battery lead won't protect against overload up to, say, a nominal 19.99A which could damage wiring. On the other hand this rarely occurs, it's dead shorts which are usually the problem. A single 20A fuse will be fine for this. It will blow before the wiring is damaged. I'm all for simplicity. The more connections there are the more potential trouble spots you have. Only problem with a single fuse is that if it blows you lose the the whole electrical system. If you've got coil ignition you've suddenly got no lights and a dead engine and the fault could be anywhere between the headlamp and the tail light. Makes dianosis at the side of the road a bit difficult. I'd add one extra fuse just for the ignition.

cheers
jim

shropshire lad · Post by **shropshire lad** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:14 pm

Thanks for that Jim. My 54 G3LS has a mag and no ignition switch. Very basic!

Alan

jim501 · Post by **jim501** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 8:11 am

quote:
Thanks for that Jim. My 54 G3LS has a mag and no ignition switch. Very basic!

Alan

Hi Alan
My first G80 had an alternator in place of the shock absorber, a magneto, no battery, no rectifier and the alternator connected straight to the lighting circuit. AC lights !! The bulbs don't mind whether it's AC or DC and the headlamp was a 55/50W sealed beam unit out of an old Mini. Fitted straight in to the Lucas 7" headlamp shell. Ultimate simplicity. One switch, 4 wires and the lights, horn etc all worked as soon as you legged it into life

cheers
jim

shropshire lad · Post by **shropshire lad** » Fri Feb 01, 2008 9:30 pm

Hi Jim
Ah! those were the days!

Alan