Bearings front and rear bad day

[mikeydpippin]

Please could i have some advise,I left the tinware and the wheel hubs front and rear (1957 G3 LS) at the shot blasters, with the intention of collecting the hubs next day,as i requested the hubs to be gently cleaned,but i forgot to remove the front and rear spindles.I have managed to retrieve the front spindle /bearings (part 012825) after being in the hot oven before blasting,(as they fell out of the hubs)and find although the roller bearings are intact and run freely on the shaft, albeit very loosely,they also move from side to side approx 3mm.Cant find any info to suggest if there is supposed to be any side movement.
1, Are they usable.
2, The rear bearings seem solid, are these difficult to replace.
Finally the wheel hubs were sprayed alloy and cured in oven,not managed to stop this happening in time.
Many Thanks in advance,
Mike (Jonah.)

[GSAX1]

Do you mean that when the bearing outer race is placed on the rollers on the shaft there is 3mm play? There shouldn't be any play at all.

The rear bearings are no harder to remove than the front ones, if hub is heated up. But if you had the hubs bead blasted they would be full of grit, clean them well first.

Michael

[mikeydpippin]

Sorry to confuse, the roller bearing outer race has now been found in the oven,there is no free play.didnt check the spares book first,to realise the outer race will secure the roller bearings on the shaft.Ignore my comments regarding the front bearings i think they are going to be fine.In fact ignore me today, next time i will think before asking.Sorry.
I have also had the paint removed from the wheel hubs ready for polishing.Maybe today is'nt a bad day after all.

[Don Madden]

Ahhh! Mikeydippin. Your are learning in spite of all the obfuscation we try to provide.

You are lucky to get the original bits back as new front bearing come only as a complete cartridge assembly the replaces spindle, bearings , etc. & not cheap.

Cheers, Don.

[Eric]

Beside the obvious about making sure everyone knows what is supposed to be done to what bits, this is a wonderfull illustration about the use of heat to remove things, the bearings just fell out by themselves.

[GSAX1]

Not everybody know this. When I rebuilt my twin I had some parts washed in an engine parts washer at a engineering company nearby. They rebuild all sorts of engines, from motorcycle to heavy vehicle ones. When I collected the cleaned parts the guy looked at the AJ's crankcase and told me that I could have trouble getting the main bearing races out.

He told me they had had some Harley cases in where they tried to press out the mains, and the cases had cracked under the pressure. I asked why they didn't heat them up first, and he said that it wouldn't help, would it, since the races would also expand. I told him sure, but the aluminium would expand at twice the rate, loosening the grip on the races. If heated enough the bearings could drop out by themselves. He just looked at me with a blank face.

[itma]

I wonder how he thought they got in there in the first place.
Did he go into Norwegian politics and legislate on safety devices I wonder?

[TommoT]

While on the subject, I just noticed that Peter's Classic Bike Parts in the Netherlands advertise brandnew repro conical wheel bearings, allegedly made to original spec. About 50% more expensive than the cartridge replacement sold by JSL, but if you have money to spend, this could be a way to do it

[GSAX1]

Wow! I didn't notice that he had them in stock. 225 Euros, now that's a hefty pricetag.

But I can't see a single reason (except originality) for keeping the original setup as compared to the cassette type. The tapered bearings are bound to have some play in them, to allow for expansion of the hub, making the bike more sensitive to lines and cuts in the tarmac.

They must be adjusted from time to time as well.

Michael