Its bugging me

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:39 am

Forgive if I'm relating items you already know.

The top shroud carrying the head lamp brackets has an open end and a flanged end, the flange end goes down, on top of the rubber ring referred to.

Above and below the spring are leather washers.

Under the springs, slipped over the stanchions are three rubber sleeves or buffers, these stop the springs rattling against the stanchions.

On completion you will need to 'fish' up the damper rods, an old spoke or a thin rod with the end bent at right angles is ideal for this. Which ever you use, tie a piece of string to the top as you are almost certainly going to drop it down the stanchion.

The nearside slider MUST have studs to secure the brake stay and mudguard, bolts on the offside.

Fit the brake stay adjacent to the slider, with the mudguard bracket outside of the stay.

The top adjusting nuts do not have washers.

Some useful torque wrench settings, taken off my bike where bits do not come loose or fall off.( now I have said that......)

Slider cap nuts 17Ftlbs
Brake stay to backplate 34Ftlbs
Front spindle nut 50Ftlbs
Mudguard stay to slider 12Ftlbs

Part numbers. Leather washer,top 021785 2off
Do. Bottom 021786 Do.
Rubber buffers 021911 6off

Edited by - Biscuit on 20 Jan 2008 09:43:04 AMEdited by - Biscuit on 20 Jan 2008 09:45:04 AM

paultbird · Post by **paultbird** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:52 am

Another thing to be careful off is the bearings, if you've been moving the yoke about you may have dislodged a ball bearing. If you find that you can't tighten the bearings any more but still have loads of free play a ball may be sitting on the edge of the race instead of in the track.

bjork · Post by **bjork** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:12 pm

Hello Mike, sorry I didn't reply earlier have been at work. All the above I would only echo, and add that a rough and ready way of checking for bent stanchions, if they are still built into the sliders is to grip the slider bottom in a vice and then rotate the stanchion by hand. Any significant bend is usually obvious to the eye.
And I would never recommend filling minor rust pits with epoxy resins to stop leaks either. Oh no, not ever. Works though!

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:10 pm

Believe it or not Steve, that method is suggested in the Haynes manual for the Honda!!

bjork · Post by **bjork** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:31 pm

Change the seals!, they cost very little and as yours is a basket case you probably won't have any idea how long they've been in there. Pay plenty of attention to the stanchions now they are out. If they are straight, make sure they are also not suffering from corrosion, cracked etc. Did you have no trouble getting the seals and stanchion to come out of the slider then? They are notorious for being reluctant to move and I was expecting your next question to be along the lines of 'why do the seals and top bush seem welded to the alloy?'
Congratulations if you got away with it!
As for polishing, sorry, I'm not much help there-if you saw my bikes you would understand.

Steve

Charles · Post by **Charles** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:39 pm

A fine scourer stolen from the kitchen sink area used gently on the alloy produces remarkable results which when finished off with a fine polishing compound on a proper mop really looks the business. I have only done this once per bike durng a rebuild as anyone who sees my bikes would realise.

bjork · Post by **bjork** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:41 pm

Hi Alan, that's probably where I cribbed it from! I bet they suggest rigging a pointer up to it though, with a dti that Mikey will no doubt have hidden away.
Just thought of the rub-it will be metric won't it?

mikeydpippin · Post by **mikeydpippin** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:44 pm

Thanks Steve,Yes the oil seals pulled out with little effort,didn't realise how cheap they were,so will replace.The stanshions seem straight when rolled on level board and when marrying them to yokes they do go in with a small amount of twisting but they are fairly badly corroded / pitted,at £43 per stanshion i will try to polish smoother.I have to replace the Stainless ext sliders @ £40 ea, and the locknuts/top nuts etc,so it aint gonna be a cheap rebuild to make nice restore,but hey no rush.

56G80S · Post by **56G80S** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:00 pm

At the risk of parading my lack of concentration, not to mention lack of understanding, I assume that you've been re-assembling without the springs in? It's another matter when they are in.

I suggest that you keep the allen key cap nuts (I personally keep almost all worn out, broken or otherwise U/S bits) that wind into the top of the stanchions through the top yoke. If you're getting new nuts, and the thread on the old ones is sound, you can use them to make up a puller. It's worth the effort of doing this, in my experience. Compressing the springs without is a tall order (but possible).

Just need the old cap nut(s), some threaded rod, some hex nuts to suit, an old large socket for a spacer and a bit of thought.

Johnny B