New chain - lubrication

56G80S · Post by **56G80S** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:26 pm

I've still got a usable can of Linklyfe and plan to be using it soon on old final drive chain.

Fitting new primary and dynamo chain too, but notice on the box of Renolds chain from JSL it refers to using a riveted link No107 and split link (supplied) only as a temp substitute.

Picking up on ITMA's comment, the only continuous chain I've ever used is the dynamo - always had split links in primary and final. It has never been problem.

Being in a wooden spoon mood, is this something for you to think about, Charles?

Johnny B

PS on a separate note, I'd used some "lying around" correct size DID chain on the primary when I hastily re-assembled. It was kept in correct tension and oil in chaincase, but on dismantling the chaincase, two rollers had cracked off and others were on the verge (it was sounding very rough). This never happened with many miles of abused Renolds chain.

bjork · Post by **bjork** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:37 pm

Johnny B, similar thing happened to my bike. The suppliers rep said the DID and most others in the shops are metric sizes. Correct on width and (I think) pitch, but the roller diameter is slightly different.

Biscuit · Post by **Biscuit** » Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:39 pm

I think the reference to rivetting the connecting link is a health and Safety cover-me-back passage thingy.

Probably applicable to plastic rocket-ships, but did any AMC road machine ever emerge with rivetted chain links?

paul knapp · Post by **paul knapp** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:00 am

"two rollers had cracked off "

You were lucky, in my youth I used some 'lying around' industrial chain I got from work on the primary drive of my Triumph and after one week all the rollers had split off and the alternator rotor had picked them up and ripped the coils to bits.
I then examined the left over piece and saw that the rollers were of the 'split' type which were not to be used in a fast application.
Motorcycle chain is far more rugged, using solid rollers and is slightly dimentially differant than industrial chain. You get what you pay for!

Paul

legg · Post by **legg** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:04 am

I'm Just starting on a slow- motion rebuild (chronic fatigue syndrome, or M.E.), so it will be some time before it becomes a personal issue, but i've always favoured the boil-on-the-stove goo, and will be using it again. One further thought- a professional timber worker friend buys several chains for his chainsaw, sharpening and using them in rotation- he says he gets better life from the drive sprocket as a worn chain tends to wear the sprocket more rapidly. using the chains in rotation would delay this process. It seems a similar benefit may be obtained on motorcycle sprockets by adopting a similar approach. Ideas, anyone?

poplargreg · Post by **poplargreg** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:10 am

quote:
The suppliers rep said the DID and most others in the shops are metric sizes. Correct on width and (I think) pitch, but the roller diameter is slightly different.

I was twice persuaded by suppliers to buy "modern" chains rather than Renolds (prob. more profit), only to find the sideplates thicker causing them to rub the back of the chaincase and chainguard (this on a G3L and RE)

itma · Post by **itma** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 11:44 am

It used to be recommended in days of yore that chains should be used in a one -on one- off fashion'
Whether anyone could afford to do this in those days is a moot point.

Reynolds chain is all thats needed and worth the higher price, which works out cheaper in the long run.
Have I and the Master hisself ( blessings be upon his old bonce) not banged on about that often enough?

All this worry about fancy chains bring me back to my point does it not?

SPRIDDLER · Post by **SPRIDDLER** » Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:28 pm

quote:
friend buys several chains for his chainsaw, sharpening and using them in rotation- he says he gets better life from the drive sprocket as a worn chain tends to wear the sprocket more rapidly. using the chains in rotation would delay this process.

Logical, I guess Daniel, but d'yer know in spite of my impecuniouness and devotion to Marigold I just couldn't be arsed to do that.
Fiddling about removing and replacing oily chain, bits of string to pull 'em through, adjusting the drive chain, and most likely the primary as well. Nah, head in the sand, me.

quote:
It seems a similar benefit may be obtained on motorcycle sprockets by adopting a similar approach. Ideas, anyone?

I wouldn't be happy with the sharp teeth on the chain whizzing (yes, sometimes I whizz a bit) around the back end.