1960 G12 CSR oil quantities ?

Information relating to the Matchless G12 or AJS Model 31 650cc twin
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lochnagar
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1960 G12 CSR oil quantities ?

Post by lochnagar »

Dear All,
I'm in the process of servicing a long term museum G12 CSR to usable condition.
Although I have an original well thumbed Workshop Instruction Manual it is hard to glean the recommended oil quantities.
Hand written notes quote the following :-

Engine :- 4 pints
Gearbox :- 1 pint
Chaincase :- 1/4 pint, (or sufficient to cover the chain low run)
Forks :- ??????????????????

Question :-
Are the quoted values correct and what's the recommended quantity for the fork legs ?

I intend to use Millers CFS 10/60 Synthetic for the engine and gearbox and Millers SAE30 Chainsaw oil for the primary chaincase , the same CFS 10/60 will go into the forks once the quantity is confirmed.

Thanking you in anticipation of your replies.
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dave16mct
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Re: 1960 G12 CSR oil quantities ?

Post by dave16mct »

1 pint of SAE 50 in the gearbox (some use 90 gear oil). 170cc each leg when changing oi in the forks. Fill the chaincase until the oil only just touches the very bottom of the chain. I would question the use of 10/60 synthetic in the engine unless newly rebuilt and using a spin-on oi filter in the return line. Better to use a low or non detergent 20/50.
Dave
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ajscomboman
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Re: 1960 G12 CSR oil quantities ?

Post by ajscomboman »

Or use SAE50 in engine and gearbox to cut down on the different types required. Just be a bit more forceful in kicking it over with the thicker oil and let it warm up longer.
SPRIDDLER
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Re: 1960 G12 CSR oil quantities ?

Post by SPRIDDLER »

IMO There's little to be gained by using 'modern' oils (synthetic, multigrade). The chainsaw oil is claimed to have 'stickability' and I'm not sure whether that would be desirable on the clutch plates.

You'll find the info re. capacities and grades in the Owners Manual here:

http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... models.pdf

Here's an extract............

Capacities. 1960.JPG
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1608
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Re: 1960 G12 CSR oil quantities ?

Post by 1608 »

Why question the "quoted values" in the hand book? Use straight 50 grade in engine and g/box, 30grade or ATF in the primary chain case, and forks as given in Spriddlers reply.
RSC13
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Re: 1960 G12 CSR oil quantities ?

Post by RSC13 »

1608 wrote: Tue Jan 23, 2024 11:08 am Why question the "quoted values" in the hand book? Use straight 50 grade in engine and g/box, 30grade or ATF in the primary chain case, and forks as given in Spriddlers reply.
He wasn't questioning data in the hand book, he couldn't find it. All he could find were hand written notes, and he was requesting verification if those notes were correct. Verification which Spriddler has very helpfully provided.
lochnagar
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Re: 1960 G12 CSR oil quantities ?

Post by lochnagar »

Dear All,
Many thanks for the replies on this request for oil quantity confirmation.
Instilled by the words of Jack Shemans / Arthur Jakeman / Les Williams of Triumph Trident fame, and Jim Boughen / Peter Williams of Matchless :- "DON'T STAND STILL"; the G12 CSR engine, gearbox and forks will be filled with the appropriate quantity of synthetic Millers CFS 10/60 with Millers Chainsaw in the primary case.
My racing Featherbed 810 Dunstall Commando had a 5 speed Quaife box and AMC multiplate clutch which would invariably slip under hard acceleration with the correct oil and level in the chaincase, cure - run the case dry but brush the chain with power saw oil prior to each outing; result - a brown envelope with a few quid and championship points !
I must give thanks to Tim Berners - Lee for providing the tools to allow so many to communicate so much so often.
Cheers Lads !!
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Re: 1960 G12 CSR oil quantities ?

Post by SPRIDDLER »

Thanks Francis. That's very interesting, but my experience is that the factory recommendations are fine for day in, day out pottering, club runs and the occasional camping rally with standard bikes.
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ajscomboman
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Re: 1960 G12 CSR oil quantities ?

Post by ajscomboman »

Without the correct lube in the chaincase the clutch rollers will run dry. This is the main factor for running the case wet, it's also to keep the chain cool.

I know the saying times move, however there is another that says, if it ain't broke don't fix it!
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