Hi All,
Pulling the clutch lever in is very hard to do , I’m sure it shouldn’t be so difficult and I know I’m not so strong as I used to be but am I missing a trick.
It’s a new cable with no kinks and is oiled , The spring tension is as low as I dare go without risking clutch slip.Anybody have any ideas except go on a Charles Atlas course.
Thanks in anticipation
Rodb
G11heavy clutch
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- dave16mct
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Re: G11heavy clutch
A few things can affect this. The handlebar levers should have 7/8" centres (centre of nipple to centre of pivot). Correct cable routing is essential. Check the lever in the gearbox is lined up with the cable entry. Cable and clutch pushrod adjustment is important. The clutch basket itself may be ridged all making the clutch heavy.
Dave.
Dave.
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Re: G11heavy clutch
If the springs aren't over-tight try routing the cable outside everything, i.e. in a nice gentle run from h/bar to clutch entry point with the minimum of bends. Although you wouldn't be able to ride it like that it will show up any cable friction (broken strands etc).
Ease off the springs so that the clutch doesn't quite slip in first gear with the front wheel against an immoveable object (wall, tree, mother-in-law etc.) and the revs no more than you'd use for a hill start.
The distance from the centre of the h/bar lever pivot bolt to the centre of the cable nipple should be 7/8". Some levers have a 1" distance pivot to nipple which will make the action heavier than it should be. (Same with front brake levers).
It may be that the clutch pushrod is gummed up and stiff to move inside the g/box mainshaft so needs removing and cleaning up.
A good quality cable is essential. Some eBay and autojumble ones are no more robust than a throttle cable.
I've had Venhill make mine using an old one as a pattern.
In the firs pic you can see the conduit (it's not just the plastic coating) starting to crush/distort at the cheap 'n cheerful ferrule. An inadequate conduit can also collapse internally and nip the inner anywhere there's a bend.
Ease off the springs so that the clutch doesn't quite slip in first gear with the front wheel against an immoveable object (wall, tree, mother-in-law etc.) and the revs no more than you'd use for a hill start.
The distance from the centre of the h/bar lever pivot bolt to the centre of the cable nipple should be 7/8". Some levers have a 1" distance pivot to nipple which will make the action heavier than it should be. (Same with front brake levers).
It may be that the clutch pushrod is gummed up and stiff to move inside the g/box mainshaft so needs removing and cleaning up.
A good quality cable is essential. Some eBay and autojumble ones are no more robust than a throttle cable.
I've had Venhill make mine using an old one as a pattern.
In the firs pic you can see the conduit (it's not just the plastic coating) starting to crush/distort at the cheap 'n cheerful ferrule. An inadequate conduit can also collapse internally and nip the inner anywhere there's a bend.
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Re: G11heavy clutch
Thanks everybody il’ll go through it slowly and sort it out
Rodb
Rodb