AMC clutch plates

Information relating to the Matchless G11 or AJS Model 30 600cc twin
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dave16mct
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Re: AMC clutch plates

Post by dave16mct »

It must be a mistake as you can see a plain plate before the pressure plate on the exploded view.
Dave.
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Joker_Bones
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Re: AMC clutch plates

Post by Joker_Bones »

Yes... The note on the diagram says 4 of each type of plate, so does the individual parts list/pictures. The diagram shows five plain plates which seems more logical.

I tighten the nuts on the clutch springs as far as they will go without making the clutch lever heavy or the cable snatchy... and usually that is where the top of the nut is about flush with the end of the stud
g80csp11
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Re: AMC clutch plates

Post by g80csp11 »

clive , on AMC clutch the default is clutch adjusting nuts flush with end of stud
the last steel plate is against the aluminium dish , friction material inwards
check your parts list for number of plates it should be correct (page 30 /31 )
5 steel plates
4 friction plates
http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Spares_l ... 0_30CS.pdf

later types have a single sided plate , but not yours with the clutch basket with inserts
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clive
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Re: AMC clutch plates

Post by clive »

Many thanks all, seems I was not doing the springs up tight enough. At least I had assembled it correctly and probably used the parts list when doing so rather than the Andover exploded diagram. Now to also find out what the strange sound is as rotate the clutch centre. Either something down behind it or I am going to have to delve in the gearbox.
clive
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clive
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Re: AMC clutch plates

Post by clive »

Well a further update. The strange sound was the seal for the primary chaincase inner around the gearbox shaft rotating with the clutch. The chaincase is off now and the gearbox nut had come loose despite having a locking washer, the 2 BA screw which retains it had fallen out. Sprocket moved over allowing the chain to reduce the inside half of the seal to about 2/3 of it's diameter and a nice groove in the back of the case. I did wonder why the outside on the chain looked polished! All fixable i think with another spares order and hopefully help from a fellow member on the seal bit!
clive
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Joker_Bones
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Re: AMC clutch plates

Post by Joker_Bones »

Have you seen the Norton type seal?
Comes in two parts that you have to drill and bolt together yourself.
IMG_20220618_122106.jpg
Comes with a felt washer that you sandwich between the two discs, I left it out and fitted an o ring between the discs.
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clive
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Re: AMC clutch plates

Post by clive »

Well finally an update. With the help of a West London section member who made the parts I have replaced the sliding seal. New nut and lock washer for the gearbox sprocket from the club. Replacement clutch plates and clutch rubbers installed. Sadly the 3 new clutch springs are still safely stored somewhere in the garage. A raid on the box of very many used clutch springs turned up 3 that seemed to match and were stronger than the last ones. All back together and no slip seems apparent.
So I moved on to the clutch on the second G11CS that I recently bought trying to find out why the clutch cable did not fit properly. comparison of the pushrods established that this one was too short. Sadly as I took the nut off the adjuster it fell into the primary chaincase. No messing about with a magnet recovered it so off with the primary chaincase outer. No horror stories this time.
Many thanks with all the advice
clive
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clive
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Re: AMC clutch plates

Post by clive »

well a follow up to my last entry about the "new" G11CS. Clutch has always been painfully hard to pull in. As I am preparing it for travel to the Slovenian IJR I changed the cable and turned the clutch springs out half a turn. 140 mile test run, all fine on motorway, no clutch slip but painfully difficult when in traffic. So I decided to bite the bullet take the primary case off and change the springs. However when I took them off I noticed the ears on the friction plates were hammered up. Fairly usual if there has been some slipping. but pulling them all out I find that I have the later clutch basket with no friction material. Next to it was a plain plate. This presumably explains the extra strong springs. Now i think I need to replace all the friction plates including the 5th one being a half plate and the plain plates as this type of basket has internal tangs on the friction plates rather than the plain plates. I feel an expensive order coming on. I assume I cannot use the earlier plain and pressure plates and simply add the later half friction plate in a mix and match approach.
Anyone know the difference between spring 040358 for later 1960s 5 plate clutch and 040385 spring AMC clutch only?
clive
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Joker_Bones
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Re: AMC clutch plates

Post by Joker_Bones »

clive wrote: Wed Mar 22, 2023 5:54 pm I assume I cannot use the earlier plain and pressure plates and simply add the later half friction plate in a mix and match approach.
Hmmm.... Wasn't sure if this is a question or a statement, but it got me thinking.
IMG_20230322_184407.jpg
There is a lip at bottom of the cut outs in the basket so the first plate to go in needs to have internal dogs and would normally be a friction plate.
IMG_20230322_185058.jpg
I imagine that's why your first plate was a plain one, if a friction plate with external dogs was used the dogs would sit on the lip unless the friction material was particularly thick.
If I'm thinking this through correctly... The set up you found would mean you have metal on metal slip contact during clutch take up, but why it would make the clutch heavy I cannot figure other than the springs being too long/strong not helped by damage to the ears/basket.
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clive
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Re: AMC clutch plates

Post by clive »

That was our conclusion last night at club, first plate has to have internal dogs. The metal on metal slip on clutch take up would I think be rather noisy (and it was not) so I am wondering if the basket really is plain. A colleague has had a later type basket with a full circular bonded friction material. My garage has only natrual light and it was quite dull when looking yesterday. I need to investigate further with a torch to see if there is in fact bonded friction material on the basket. Seems likely as I know the PO was unlikely to have wrongly assembled it, simply used stronger springs to avoid some slip. In which case I may just need to replace the springs and some of the damaged friction plates. Thanks for the help.
clive
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