Dynamo Removal

Information relating to the Matchless G3 or AJS Model 16 350cc Heavyweight
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Taid
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2019 3:35 pm
Location: Shropshire UK

Re: Dynamo Removal

Post by Taid »

I know this isn't good engineering practice, but I put a piece of a pencil to wedge the lever very slightly open (not enough to slip the clutch, but enough to take the full pressure from the plates) .

It is then very easy to break the 'stick' when I pull in the lever fully
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Now sold ... 1956 AJS 16MS Bitsa .. HSU 414 .. rebuilt/re-registered 1987
Steve
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Re: Dynamo Removal

Post by Steve »

SPRIDDLER wrote: Fri Sep 09, 2022 2:14 pm
Steve wrote: Fri Sep 09, 2022 1:33 pm
......which brings me to the oil for the clutch do you put it in (if so how much what type) or does it come in from the engine.
When you refill the primary chaincase only put in sufficient oil to just touch the underside of the lower run of the chain.
so its not actually a wet clutch then? that's interesting.
now as there's no window how do you judge the amount of oil?

P.S. I apologise for high jacking this thread.
SPRIDDLER
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Re: Dynamo Removal

Post by SPRIDDLER »

The clutch doesn't run in oil but relies upon splash and run-off from the primary chain. Likewise lubrication for the clutch basket rollers and the shock absorber on the engine drive shaft.
AS previously mentioned, put in enough oil through the filler cap so that it just touches the underside of the primary chain bottom run which you can see through the filler cap.
I use straight 30 grade. I've read that it's unwise to use a modern multigrade e.g. 20/50 as these contain friction reducing additives which you don't want on clutch plates.

If you don't have the factory manuals they can be found here under 'Books':

http://archives.jampot.dk/

Ah, I see I've already given you that link to the manuals in a reply earlier in this thread.
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