Wire harness for a 1940?

[JagLite]

I would like to get a new complete wiring harness for my 1940 G3WO (Girder fork model '39-'40).
Ive sent several emails over the summer to the advert in the Jampot newsletter but no reply ever.

Does anyone know of an active source for wiring?

I no success I will buy the cloth covered vintage wire in various colors available and make my own.
I prefer to buy one complete though.

Thanks mates!
James in Alaska

[Stuart Jenkins]

Hi James
could you use one of these? quite a few companies are stocking the Lucas looms over here in the UK. I know It's a 45-55 but could be useful as a starting point?
https://www.feked.com/ajs-matchless-hea ... -loom.html

https://www.classicbikeshop.co.uk/lucas ... 45-55.html

https://www.gsparkplug.com/lucas-main-w ... alEALw_wcB

Stuart

[Rob Harknett]

I do not think any wires on a 1946 - 1955 loom will be of the correct length. The headlamp wiring would differ. The G3WO has switch, ammeter within the petrol tank panel. The horn and CVC unit are in different positions. Some wires would need to be made longer. Most made shorter. Fittings and connections changed. this will leave no wiring from the switch to the head lamp and within the headlamp. Dip switch, horn button, stop lamp and ammeter. Not to mention correct type of wire and colours. Needless to say any wire sleeving would have to be dumped and replaced.

[Groily]

I do not think any wires on a 1946 - 1955 loom will be of the correct length. The headlamp wiring would differ. The G3WO has switch, ammeter within the petrol tank panel. The horn and CVC unit are in different positions. Some wires would need to be made longer. Most made shorter. Fittings and connections changed. this will leave no wiring from the switch to the head lamp and within the headlamp. Dip switch, horn button, stop lamp and ammeter. Not to mention correct type of wire and colours. Needless to say any wire sleeving would have to be dumped and replaced.

I agree with Rob having seen one or two of the 'tank panel' machines, I think it's a 'make' for this one unless one of the specialists comes back to you with a solution.

[Stuart Jenkins]

If It's the bike James featured in his rebuild thread the ammeter and switch are in the light shell and it has a plain tank like the G3L, so could an early loom possibly work?

[Rob Harknett]

I believe some of the G3 WO's did have a plain petrol tank. This would make a 1946 loom more acceptable.

[Triumph-Legend]

If your still having problems I can recommend Wiring Harness Supplier, (proper job, cloth wound as per original spec). Bill Mead. 01282 – 721720.
26 Spencer Street, Burnley, BB10 1PR. Believe me the service Bill offers and his knowledge of the electric of these is second to none. A really nice and helpful bloke to deal with.

[JagLite]

Thanks gentlemen, my bike does have the switch and ammeter in the headlight and the regular gas tank.

I really am glad to see there are generic wire harnesses available.

I will have to figure out what wires mine uses and see how it compares with the later models.
It would be really nice to have correct new ends and the correct lengths.
I will take pictures of what I have and see if anyone recognizes it.

I also have parts of a switch that mounts on the bars that I need to replace.
I don't know what it is but I am guessing headlight on/off?
I will take a picture of it too.

James in Alaska

[JagLite]

I've been looking at Feked website and I wonder if the switch I need is the Miller Type Dip Switch and Horn Button?
I hadn't thought about a horn button but obviously I need one.
What little I have of the old switch looks a lot like the Miller switch.

I wasn't aware of Feked so I am having fun looking at all the stuff they have.
Thanks Stuart, I appreciate it!

James in Alaska

[JagLite]

I took my bike to a friends small Vintage Bike Show





What was really surprising was there was another Matchless G3!



I took pictures of what I have of the wire harness:






I believe this is the dynamo connection:



I think this is the connection to the regulator:



The switch (headlight/horn?) I need to replace is the lower center in this picture:



It looks to me that I need (8) wires about 4' long, (1) wire to the taillight is 6' long, and (6) wires about 2' long.

The wires I have are all plastic covered and wrapped with black electrical tape then painted.
All the wires are old, brittle, and cracked. Only a few of them are marked with anything.