Any top tip? Fork tube into fork crown issue

[G3L1946]

Good morning all,

Although the sun shines in North Yorkshire I find myself sweating from exertion trying to re install the front fork tubes into the fork crown . I’m following the instructions from the hand book (and other commentaries) on this procedure without the use of draw bolts.
The problem is that the tubes are just too tight to be pushed through the holes in the crown. Liberal application of grease and moderate heat to no avail ( can’t use too much heat as repainted items ). I’ve tried ‘easing’ the gap open but a bit worried that I might crack the casting ( unduly worried ? ). Overspray of paint in crown holes removed and all clean.
Any top tips or expertise on this issue?

Your help ,as always, appreciated.

Steve

[Mick D]

Hi

It sounds like you are experiencing difficulty in getting the stanchions through the bottom yoke. Do a 'dry' assembly without the fork springs - the stanchion should pass through the bottom yoke without any additional action but corrosion, restoration and repro parts can require some additional measures.
Clean off all surface finish from the bores of the yoke, ensure the stanchions are free from corrosion, grease the stanchion and see if it will pass through the yoke. If not, get a wedge, (screwdriver), and tap it into the yoke at the pinch bolt gap to open up the bore - you should now be able to get the stanchion to slide up through.
Now fit the spring and pull the leg into place - you do have the special tool don't you?

Regards Mick

[G3L1946]

Hi Mick,

Er, Special tool? I’m at the point shown in attached photo from manual less being able to get the tubes anywhere near passing through the bottom yolk. Tried grease, tried heat no joy.
I don’t think it would be a possibility to do a dry run without spring etc. Very tight!
As previously said, tried screw driver to wedge open but bit concerned about over doing it.

Steve

[Mick D]

Hi Steve

There are two types of stanchion, 1 1/8" and 1 14" - do you have the correct stanchion for you yokes?

Regards Mick

[G3L1946]

Hi Mick,

I can only presume so. They came with the bike! They are 1.247 ( 1 1/4 “ ) and the internal of the yoke matches ( I just measured to make sure as wasn’t aware of two different sizes! ).
Steve

[Andy G]

Came with bike but not assembled? Did you strip?

[G3L1946]

Hi Andy,

Came with the bike and assembled. I have stripped the bike down to replace worn parts etc and re spray. Doubled checked for burrs etc, nothing. The stanchion has been cleaned. I can get the stanchion in about 3/4 ins. then it binds. I tested the other stanchion in its correct hole and, although tight, would slide in. The problem stanchion will not go in either hole. Strangely , the ‘ good stanchion’ won’t go in the problem hole! I suppose this indicates a problem with both the stanchion and it’s respective hole? I hope that makes sense!
It’s given me a headache!

Regards,

Steve

[Andy G]

Can you put the hex bolt (or another with same thread) into the clamp from "wrong" side, then place a washer or similar to cover the hole other side of clamp? Then use the bolt to push against the now blind hole and press the clamp open enough to assemble?
Hopefully that makes sense!

[G3L1946]

Hi Andy,
Yes, I think I get that. I will give it a go and let you, and the forum, know the result.

Cheers,

Steve

[G3L1946]

Hi,

Just thought. Can’t actually do that as the Allen bolt can only be inserted one direction. The other side is blind which has the thread.
Back to the drawing board!

Thanks,

Steve