Front wheel centralisation

Information relating to the Matchless G3 or AJS Model 16 350cc Heavyweight
Mick D
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Re: Front wheel centralisation

Post by Mick D »

sno335 wrote: Thu Jun 17, 2021 9:30 am With the wheel in this position the torque arm doesn't sit right and is at an angle.

Hi

As I understand your symptoms, the brake plate is in an incorrect position when referencing the brake torque arm, (or vice versa), - this cannot be affected by how the wheel is laced. You need to investigate the torque arm and how it is attached, is it the correct part, is it distorted, can the fit be improved by swapping the position of the arm relative to the mudguard bridge?

How the wheel is built will effect the offset and thus the wheel alignment when installed - pulling the wheel across by 5mm is easy if the rim is concentric and aligned. Rig up a jig to hold the spindle and a pointer to gauge the position of the rim then loosen the spoke nipples one half turn on the side you want to move the rim from then tighten the spokes on the other side by 1/2 turn, check to see how much the rim has moved, repeat as necessary. When the rim is where you want it you need to confirm there are no spokes protruding past the nipples which could puncture the tube, quickest way is to remove one of the tyre beads and run your fingers over the nipple ends, any protrusions and the tyre will have to come off to allow the spokes(s) to be ground back.

I'm of the same opinion as Clive, the end caps are the same on both sides

Regards Mick
sno335
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Re: Front wheel centralisation

Post by sno335 »

Yes me too,but I saw some fork caps listed on a well known auction site that were not the same,so it cast a seed of doubt to my already befuddled brain!
sno335
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Re: Front wheel centralisation

Post by sno335 »

Yes on reflection you're spot on about the brake plate/torque arm.
The torque arm is new from the club spares although it's 1mm thicker?
The wheel is ancient and rusty so spoke adjustment would not be possible.
I could crank the torque arm slightly but the wheel will be out of centre by 5mm,I wonder how much this would affect the steering?
Mick D
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Re: Front wheel centralisation

Post by Mick D »

sno335 wrote: Thu Jun 24, 2021 1:15 pm the wheel will be out of centre by 5mm,I wonder how much this would affect the steering?
Hi

I doubt you'll even notice - give it a try, you've got nothing to lose.

Regards Mick
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clive
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Re: Front wheel centralisation

Post by clive »

In my experience the steering would result in the handlebars being slightly off with the left slightly forward to compensate as you were going along. Manageable but a bit annoying and it also results in wear on one side of the tyre. I tried tweaking my rim across which improved things but quite recently I finally fitted a washer behind the nut which locks the brakeplate to the spindle. As my bitsa, sorry special, has the WD type front wheel and the torque stud on the slider I also had to put a washer on the stud before fitting the torque arm which is part of the brake plate. It now has straight bars when travelling. Mind you it has had the odd tumble under my ownership so the twist in the handlebars may not be related to the wheel, but I am sure the tyre wear was.
clive
if it ain't broke don't fix
Mick D
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Re: Front wheel centralisation

Post by Mick D »

clive wrote: Thu Jun 24, 2021 5:51 pm In my experience the steering would result in the handlebars being slightly off with the left slightly forward to compensate
Hi

That's symptomatic of the wheels not being correctly aligned, ie the steering has to be turned to bring the front and rear wheels parallel. If the wheels are tracking in the same direction with the steering straight ahead, (in this case with a 5mm offset between them), the most noticeable effect will be a tendency to turn more easily one way than the other.

Or at least, that's how I understand it ;)

Regards Mick
Andy51
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Re: Front wheel centralisation

Post by Andy51 »

Hi, the excerpt Rob quotes from the manual re being careful not to interchange the end caps was all very well when the bikes were newish, but is completely irrelevant today after numerous strip-downs by many (often mechanically illiterate) owners! I assemble my end caps with the side with the visible end of the cast-in steel reinforcing strip facing outwards, i.e. you can see it when assembly is complete. Cheers, Andy
SPRIDDLER
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Re: Front wheel centralisation

Post by SPRIDDLER »

Andy51 wrote: Thu Jun 24, 2021 8:10 pm I assemble my end caps with the side with the visible end of the cast-in steel reinforcing strip facing outwards, i.e. you can see it when assembly is complete. Cheers, Andy
I do the same.

Fork cap.JPG
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Andy G
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Re: Front wheel centralisation

Post by Andy G »

Oh, that's what those strips are! You learn something every day. 👍
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sno335
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Re: Front wheel centralisation

Post by sno335 »

Yes my thinking was that it would steer more easily one way.
I may try a thin washer to spacer the wheel over slightly without compromising the spindle clamping area or amount of spindle nut engaged.The personal experiences are most reassuring ,I have the end caps correctly positioned and I also guessed it wasn't vital which fork leg they went on,although I guess we all try to reassemble bits how the came off.
I'm really not sure the age of the wheel ,pretty elderly but has an ali brake plate?
Once it's reassembled I'll take it up the road.Maybe not soon as I still have some work to do elsewhere on the bike.
John
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