Dynamo Removal

[Habberley Thumper]

Hi all

I have followed the instructions from the manual 1956 AJS 16MS). I have undone the sprocket nut having removed the primary cover and removed the locking washer. I have made the wedge tool by grinding an old spanner but the manual says I should place it between the Dynamo sprocket and the Dynamo body and lightly tap. Sandwiched between the Dynamo sprocket and the Dynamo body is the inner section of the primary chain case and a spacer sleeve Then the dynamo body. Where am I supposed to place the wedge. I don’t want to damage anything. Help please

[SPRIDDLER]

Hi all

I have followed the instructions from the manual 1956 AJS 16MS). I have undone the sprocket nut having removed the primary cover and removed the locking washer. I have made the wedge tool by grinding an old spanner but the manual says I should place it between the Dynamo sprocket and the Dynamo body and lightly tap. Sandwiched between the Dynamo sprocket and the Dynamo body is the inner section of the primary chain case and a spacer sleeve Then the dynamo body. Where am I supposed to place the wedge. I don’t want to damage anything. Help please

There isn't normally a spacing sleeve. The dynamo sprocket has a wide boss on the inner side which may be what you think is a spacer sleeve.

I tap the wedge firmly into place between the inner edge of the sprocket boss (your 'spacer sleeve''?) and the dynamo body, then with the nut replaced just a few turns onto the dynamo shaft I give the nut a sharp tap or two. The wedge is for transferring most of the shock of tapping the nut onto the front of the dynamo body rather than the armature which would displace the armature inwards, potentially damaging it at the brushes end.
(The sprocket can be quite reluctant to free).

As a Guest (i.e. not a club member/subscriber) you don't have full access to the website and technical info and can't search for previous posts so I've done a quick search which gives you this link below to a similar series of replies.
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=27622&p=232557&hil ... et#p232557

Sprocket dynamo 1956 parts.JPG

Sprocket. Dynamo.JPG

[Habberley Thumper]

Hi thanks for the quick reply. There is definitely a metal sleeve which is spinning freely between the Dynamo body and the right hand edge of the primary drive inner housing.

I may try a gear puller on the sprocket.

[SPRIDDLER]

Hi thanks for the quick reply. There is definitely a metal sleeve which is spinning freely between the Dynamo body and the right hand edge of the primary drive inner housing.

I may try a gear puller on the sprocket.

Hmm. I can't see the purpose of a spacer/sleeve because the sprocket should be a tapered fit onto the dynamo shaft and chain alignment is arranged by moving the dynamo in or out.
Perhaps it isn't the correct dynamo and maybe one from a Twin which I think (?) would have a parallel shaft?

[Groily]

I think use a puller on the sprocket as you suggest then check to see exactly what you have got when it's off. Sounds funny to me as it does to Spriddler.
Should have a tapered shaft, indeed, and probably be an E3N if correct for the year. But there are all sorts of possibilities that may have crept in over time, some perfectly good, some OK, some No No.

[Steve]

Should have looked here before trying to remove mine.
I removed the dynamo and the clutch back plate as one piece as I couldn't remove it at the time.
Then because the sprocket has flats I thought maybe it was screwed on spent quite a lot of time trying to get it off before I tried a puller on it and it popped off quite easy in the end. mine is keyed on, also mine had not a spacer but either a felt or foam pad between the back of the plate and the dynamo.
which brings me to the oil for the clutch do you put it in (if so how much what type) or does it come in from the engine.

[SPRIDDLER]

......which brings me to the oil for the clutch do you put it in (if so how much what type) or does it come in from the engine.

Hi Steve. You won't find specific info on clutch lubrication in the Owners Manuals and the Workshop Manuals in the Archives because the clutch doesn't need its own dedicated lubrication. The clutch is lubricated just by the oil (mostly spray/mist) thrown off the chain in the primary chaincase.

When you refill the primary chaincase only put in sufficient oil to just touch the underside of the lower run of the chain. I've always used straight SAE 30 but I've heard of others using ATF (for whatever reason I don't know). Don't cut corners and put multigrade in there as I understand that it has friction reducing additives which you don't want on your clutch plates.

Here's the link again to your '53 16MS Owners Manual.

http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf

There are couple of Workshop Manuals to choose from in the link here (which is the same as the one that Dave gave you earlier):

http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Workshop_manuals/

[Pharisee]

......which brings me to the oil for the clutch do you put it in (if so how much what type) or does it come in from the engine.

Hi Steve. You won't find specific info on clutch lubrication in the Owners Manuals and the Workshop Manuals in the Archives because the clutch doesn't need its own dedicated lubrication. The clutch is lubricated just by the oil (mostly spray/mist) thrown off the chain in the primary chaincase.

When you refill the primary chaincase only put in sufficient oil to just touch the underside of the lower run of the chain. I've always used straight SAE 30 but I've heard of others using ATF (for whatever reason I don't know). Don't cut corners and put multigrade in there as I understand that it has friction reducing additives which you don't want on your clutch plates.

Here's the link again to your '53 16MS Owners Manual.

http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf

There are couple of Workshop Manuals to choose from in the link here (which is the same as the one that Dave gave you earlier):

http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Workshop_manuals/

Just out of curiosity, is there any correlation between the grade/type of lubricant used in the primary chain case and the "sticking clutch plates" syndrome? I've always used the same as the engine... straight SAE50, in my AMC machines and have no problem. However, I use engine oil in my Triumph T90 chain case, in this case 20w50, and it can be a right bitch to separate the plates if the bike has been left standing for a while.
John

[SPRIDDLER]

Just out of curiosity, is there any correlation between the grade/type of lubricant used in the primary chain case and the "sticking clutch plates" syndrome? I've always used the same as the engine... straight SAE50, in my AMC machines and have no problem. However, I use engine oil in my Triumph T90 chain case, in this case 20w50, and it can be a right bitch to separate the plates if the bike has been left standing for a while.
John

Dunno, John. I've only ever used straight 30 and not noticed a sticking problem although I have always habitually freed the clutch before starting - clutch lever pulled in and a couple of operations of the kickstart.
Do your bikes' clutch plates have different friction materials? E.g. has one got cork and the other a modern bonded material? I think it's the cork ones that tend to be problematic.

[Pharisee]

Just out of curiosity, is there any correlation between the grade/type of lubricant used in the primary chain case and the "sticking clutch plates" syndrome? I've always used the same as the engine... straight SAE50, in my AMC machines and have no problem. However, I use engine oil in my Triumph T90 chain case, in this case 20w50, and it can be a right bitch to separate the plates if the bike has been left standing for a while.
John

Dunno, John. I've only ever used straight 30 and not noticed a sticking problem although I have always habitually freed the clutch before starting - clutch lever pulled in and a couple of operations of the kickstart.
Do your bikes' clutch plates have different friction materials? E.g. has one got cork and the other a modern bonded material? I think it's the cork ones that tend to be problematic.

My G3/LS and my M18 have both had their clutch friction plates replaced with new plates. They either came from AMC Classic Spares or from the club spares... I can't remember which. The T90 has Surflex friction plates. Both have modern bonded friction material.
Separating the plates with a kick works OK when it's a big single with reasonable compression, but by contrast, the T90 had very little compression... not enough to break the "stiction". As that engine is currently in in the workshop being rebuilt, including a re-bore and new pistons, hopefully it might be a bit better when it's all back together with a few miles on its clock!!