do I have to remove engine to get cylinder barrel and piston out?

[SPRIDDLER]

Yes, it's o.k. to mention suppliers (It's how we add to knowledge) and if receiving good service to put details in the 'Recommendations' forum.

A good mag should produce (ideally) a blue 'ish spark at kickstart speed that will jump at gap of say, 5mm wide. A weak spark can also be due to a dodgy plug or poor contact with the plug cap, dirty mag slip ring, ineffective carbon brush/spring, failing condenser, dirty c/b points.....

The mag produces the most powerful spark when the h/bar A/R lever is set at full advance. Since one normally retards the ignition for starting the weaker spark from a below par mag can make starting difficult.

[Wayne Cole]

Yes, it's o.k. to mention suppliers (It's how we add to knowledge) and if receiving good service to put details in the 'Recommendations' forum.

A good mag should produce (ideally) a blue 'ish spark at kickstart speed that will jump at gap of say, 5mm wide. A weak spark can also be due to a dodgy plug or poor contact with the plug cap, dirty mag slip ring, ineffective carbon brush/spring, failing condenser, dirty c/b points.....

The mag produces the most powerful spark when the h/bar A/R lever is set at full advance. Since one normally retards the ignition for starting the weaker spark from a below par mag can make starting difficult.

work has begun mate! how/where do I remove pushrods which nut is it? I assume I have to remove these before removing head? so is it top nut or bottom two? I will restore this bike!

20220921_190712.jpg

20220921_191504.jpg

[g80csp11]

page 24 onward covers dismantling the engine

http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf

once you remove the bolts holding the rocker cover on , you can tilt the cover to remove push rods

[Wayne Cole]

page 24 onward covers dismantling the engine

http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf

once you remove the bolts holding the rocker cover on , you can tilt the cover to remove push rods

nice! ok cheers.

[Wayne Cole]

page 24 onward covers dismantling the engine

http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf

once you remove the bolts holding the rocker cover on , you can tilt the cover to remove push rods

any idea where to get a valve spring removal/replacer tool?

[Wayne Cole]

blunder removed

[Wayne Cole]

page 24 onward covers dismantling the engine

http://archives.jampot.dk/book/Owners_m ... ingles.pdf

once you remove the bolts holding the rocker cover on , you can tilt the cover to remove push rods

any idea where to get a valve spring removal/replacer tool? just checked actually, I need a compressor maybe depending on the actual issue, i see someone on the forum has made their own compression tool

compression tool.jpg

[clive]

Wayne it is time you explored the club parts service.
https://www.amoc-parts.com//store/comer ... tegory=127
this link takes you to the relevant page. There are two types of extractor, the c shaped one is for earlier machines which have springs the ends of which are retained in tray. The later straight type is for bikes with an open tray for the ends of the springs. I imagine yours as a 1953 model will need the later one.

Your engine should have hairpin springs rather than coiled ones so they extractors are different to traditional ones. I imagine the homemade one you show is for the earlier springs retained in the tray. The later type is quick to use you just lever up or down, having inserted a suitable bolt through the holes.

[Wayne Cole]

Wayne it is time you explored the club parts service.
https://www.amoc-parts.com//store/comer ... tegory=127
this link takes you to the relevant page. There are two types of extractor, the c shaped one is for earlier machines which have springs the ends of which are retained in tray. The later straight type is for bikes with an open tray for the ends of the springs. I imagine yours as a 1953 model will need the later one.

Your engine should have hairpin springs rather than coiled ones so they extractors are different to traditional ones. I imagine the homemade one you show is for the earlier springs retained in the tray. The later type is quick to use you just lever up or down, having inserted a suitable bolt through the holes.

thanks mate, do I have a problem here with the screw holding the exhaust in to cylinder? it looks shredded to me! my only option then would be to either drill it out or take part of the exhaust out with cylinder right or is these something inside I am missing? as for store yes I have bought a few bits already cheers.

20220921_204719.jpg

[Duncan]

The screw is non-standard added by a previous owner to keep the exhaust in, it is normally a push fit.