Clutch washer with no home!

[G3L1946]

Good afternoon all,

Just in the process of cleaning, checking and reassembling the clutch parts. I seem to have a washer with no home! Referred to manuals and parts catalogue but can not identify where this washer goes. It was there when I took everything to bits but should it have been? It was located under 12-10-3 ( thin washer chain bearing). Question mark in green identification of miscreant.
Any help as to true location, if any, much appreciated.

PS. It’s not washer 12-7-7 washer for centre retaining nut.

Matchless 1955 G3LS

Regards,

Steve

[56G80S]

IKBA - let's make that clear.

I'm a long way from re-assembling the clutch on my B52 box.

I was idly browsing through posts earlier today and noticed one which referred to a washer underneath the tab / locking washer and a comment that it was there solely to assist with raising the tab by enabling a tool to be inserted under the locking washer.

This could be entirely wrong in your case. I think it was Rob Swift who made the comment but not sure.

I've got one of the exploded diagram posters somewhere but can't look for it at the moment - in any case, you say you have.

Good luck,

Johnny B (only just in North Yorks, at the northernmost tip)

[G3L1946]

Hi Johnny

I have studied the exploded clutch diagram but just cannot identify the washer. It obviously came off but was it put there erroneously by the previous owner or mechanic? I don’t know, hopefully I can get a lead.

Thanks for you help,


Steve

[G3L1946]

Hi again,
See attached pictorial I’m referring to. I can only spot three washers, I have four!

Steve

[clive]

The washer is not part of the clutch. The thin washer seems to show evidence of wear which is not unusual and I wonder if it was fitted to pack out the centre. I would assemble without and see if all locks up satisfactorily. If not new Thick and Thin washers may be needed.

[G3L1946]

Morning Clive,

I think you are correct. It’s addition, to its original location, would have the effect of ‘thickening’ the thick washer 12-10-4. It really ,visually, seems to have little effect to the assembly. It all locks up satisfactorily on the bench. I checked that the clearance between the thick washer and studs ( 14-2-1) was present as the inclusion of the additional washer may have been made to ensue a gap was present ( a worn thick washer would have reduced clearance or rendered non at all ).
Thanks for advice,

Steve

[dave16mct]

Check the length of the rollers. They shouldn't be the commonly available 1/4" ones. Burman are slightly shorter so maybe the washer was added because of this. I would get new burman B52 rollers from the club.
Dave.

[clive]

Hang on I think the thick washer goes in first and should be nowhere near the studs. This may explain the extra washer as if the thin washer is used first I think the clutch basket will not quite be in line with the drive sprocket, and may also just catch on the inner chaincase. Will check to see if my memory is correct.

Yes your diagram misses the part numbers. Look at the full one http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Tra ... d_view.pdf and you will see that 12-10-4 the thick washer goes first, if there is not enough clearance for the studs with the thin washer at that end it is possible your basket or thin washer have worn due to the clutch basket coming loose at some time. If it is the thin washer the club sell them.

good luck

Ps just seen Dave's comment about the rollers and I am sure he has got it right. The point about the thick and thin washers is still true though.

[G3L1946]

Hi Clive,
I might have confused the issue so see attached photo as to how I think it goes in order. Quite correct, thick washer first. I have left out the ‘additional’ washer.
The technical drawing I have referred to with no additional washer evident (as far as I can see )
I think I will need to assemble it and check as I go .

Regards,

Steve

[ajscomboman]

Thick washer first, the inner race with the rollers packed with grease ,then the clutch basket and then the thin washer. Then the centre, the studs should be relieved so they sit down onto the clutch centre and that effectively locks the studs in place with a little radial float. It stops the studs twisting when the cups, spring and adjuster is screwed on.

I'd show us a picture of all the components you have separately.