Box of bits assembly of 1955 G80S

[Matchbox Kid]

I built mine round the engine bottom end stood on wood blocks on my bike lift, gradually adding bits as I finished each sub assembly. Mine went, engine bottom end, engine plates, gearbox, front of frame, rear swing arm and then onto the cycle parts and front forks, at some point you can lift it off the wood blocks and onto the centre stand but like previous posters have said, there is no right way, just the way you feel comfy with.

[dave16mct]

One of the tricky bits is getting the front stud in joining the front frame, front of the rails and the lower front of the bottom end all together as the frame want to do the splits! I find a good helper is a couple of rods with sharpened end or an old screwdivesr sharpened. Shove these through and replace with the correct studs later when everything's lined up.
Mike's method of a dry run is a good idea but I've never got further than the frame assembly before stripping and painting. I find the important thing is to get on with it. The more you do the more enthusiastic you get and it begins to take shape.
Dave.

[clive]

One of the tricky bits is getting the front stud in joining the front frame, front of the rails and the lower front of the bottom end all together as the frame want to do the splits! I find a good helper is a couple of rods with sharpened end or an old screwdrivers sharpened. Shove these through and replace with the correct studs later when everything's lined up.
Mike's method of a dry run is a good idea but I've never got further than the frame assembly before stripping and painting. I find the important thing is to get on with it. The more you do the more enthusiastic you get and it begins to take shape.
Dave.

I normally fit the engine into a rolling chassis. My experience with the frame spreading is that a scissor jack just lifting the weight of the engine stops the spread and provided the rolling chassis is strapped down turns getting the studs into place into an easy job.

[Mick D]

Hi

By dry assembly I mean make sure all mating parts do so in good order before applying the final finish.

In the case of the frame and it's components:

Check to condition of the

Centre and side stand mounts, stops and pivots
Head races
Swinging arm pivot
Frame alignment

For the fuel tank:

Confirm it fits the frame
The threads for the taps, badges and mounts are in good condition
There are no pin holes

It's all basic stuff that will save anguish later on - especially relevant when you're referring to a 'basket case' and are new to AMC.

Regards Mick

[RobC_LAPSED]

Thanks All for your help and suggestions.
I've just sorted the club membership this morning so a full member now.

The doc in the archive detailing engine plates and bolts/studs was most helpful, I didn't see that before so thanks for that link. I think I know where the studs go now and what's missing in this area!

I'm attempting a dry assembly of frame and plates etc first, as suggested. I've got this loosely together and now awaiting for my first order of missing parts before I proceed on this.
I'm not intending to do a full restoration with proper paint job at the moment, I'll only scratch it with my experimenting! I want to sort out the mechanicals and find what's missing, using it as a familiarisation process.

Next question! As many of the crankcase bolts are used for mounting as well as holding the two halves together, some more will need to come out when I try to manoeuvre it in between the plates and front frame mounting. It only has 2 or 3 in at the moment. Is it best to use some g-clamps or something to hold the halves together evenly while getting it in?
I'm not intending to take the engine apart as yet.

Back to the forks and headstock for now!
Thanks
Rob

[martinbuilt AJS]

Hi

If you're doing a restoration as opposed to putting together an 'oily rag', I strongly suggest you do a full dry assembly, (not necessarily all at once). It's annoying, not to mention expensive, if you find you need to modify components after they have been finished, (paint, powder, chrome).

Regards Mick

All of my machines fall into the "oily rag" catagory, although i didn't know there was a name for it until i started hanging around here.
Thanks for the clarification on the assembly. I have a spare set of motor cases that i plan to use as a placeholder while i figure out how everything fits together.
I'm waiting now for a set of studs to arrive from AMC classic, so i can start.


RobC,
Obviously i'm not the best person to give advice on this, but i've been working on an old BSA that is very similar. If it's like the BSA, there are a handful of smaller studs that hold the cases together and have nothing to do with the plates.
I suspect it will be possible to sneak the motor in by loosening the studs that connect the plates to the frame sections so you can gain some space.

[Mick D]

Hi Rob C

There are enough fasteners through the crank cases to secure them whilst fitting to the frame without additional measures, don't forget the barrel nuts also perform this function.

Regards Mick

[56G80S]

I could be wrong, but watch out for 014147, Bolt, bottom rear. This is daft, because I've just split the crankcases on my G80S, but memory fails. I think this is the bolt that is behind the connects for the oil pipes and needs to be in place before the unions for the oil pipes are fitted. It has a shallower head?

Someone put me right here!

Johnny B

[clive]

Yes Johnny it has a head which is of reduced thickness to clear the oil pipes but I would recommend putting all the studs in place before fitting the oil pipes anyway.

[Mick D]

Spot on Johnny

If you fit a standard headed bolt or fit the correct bolt from the left you can't connect the oil feed line because the head / nut is too thick and interferes with the gland nut on the pipe.

I see Rob C has helpfully posted an image of the bolt fitted incorrectly, (from the left), here:

http://www.jampot.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=27356

The thin head can be seen on the left of the first photo of the brake pedal assy

Regards Mick