Chain oilers

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56G80S
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Chain oilers

Post by 56G80S »

I did a search on this forum and not surprisingly found reference to the engine breather (not going that route!) and the lack of need due to worn output shaft seals on gearboxes etc.

On internet searches I've been from Loobman to Scotoilers to Motobriiz and on to OSCO.

Joking aside, I fancied the Motobriiz because it means I don't have to think about doing it, the power is wind and therefore no electrics. Unfortunately it refers to the swinging arm slider and fixing a pad to it. That's a no starter unless I modify it to an over the sprocket approach and needle drip; time and effort I don't have available.

The Tutoro https://www.tutorochainoiler.com/ looks good but close to £100 with the shark fin. Maybe I'll just have to see what comes up "used" on Fleabite.

What are others experiences?

Johnny B
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Duncan
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by Duncan »

Ever thought of going old school and using a drip feed oiler filled with chainsaw oil, just remember to turn it on and off with the bike:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283054539395 ... Sw6AlbSJXh
SPRIDDLER
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by SPRIDDLER »

You worry too much, John! ;)

It's just another thing to need attention. No. 2 son fitted an expensive auto lube on his Kawasaki and in 8 years we've never managed to adjust the flow satisfactorily.
Perfection (640x360).jpg
I use an aerosol spray chain lube, putting an opened out Shreddies packet behind the chain to avoid overspray onto the rear tyre. It's part of my pre-run tyre-kicking, tank-peering checks.
Not so easy on my modern bike as it doesn't have a centre stand enabling me to spin the wheel.
56G80S wrote: Wed Jul 28, 2021 8:48 pm Maybe I'll just have to see what comes up "used" on Fleabite.
Being a cynic I suspect that used ones are removed and put on eBay because they either don't work very well or they give too much trouble - a bit like s/h carbs ?
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56G80S
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by 56G80S »

Spriddles - I was even thinking of enclosing the rear chain! That was brilliant on the pig nose MZ. For the Matchless (and Yamaha) wasn't too keen on the "auto" part involving electrics / wind power etc.

Duncan - They look good and small investment if fails. Needle valve should enable adjustment and turn off facility.

Johnny B
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REW
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by REW »

I'm with Spriddler on this - onto the main stand ('cos we have one), oil can spout positioned over inboard chain plates, spin back wheel and squirt oil for a rev or two. Same for outboard side. Do it every 500 miles or more if you want or it's going to piss down.

The oil goes everywhere eventually anyway so it stops other bits rusting. Duncan suggests chainsaw oil which does stay more "put" though is a trial to remove since it too will eventually go everywhere.

KISS!
Ron

1951 Matchless G3L thumping round the Durham Dales.
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by Mick D »

Hi

I'm still using Putoline as recommended here:

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19713

Very pleased with it, no mess or 'fling' :D

I know plenty of chaps with superbikes fitted with oilers, not many of them have much good to say about them ;)

Regards Mick
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Samuel
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by Samuel »

When I had a 400/4 in the 80's I put an after market (Furlough?) rear chain case on it.
After that I hardly had to adjust the chain at all; the chain lube kept on the chain and the weather kept out.
I think it is looks / vanity that keeps these from being fitted as standard on modern machines.
Sam
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by SPRIDDLER »

I know little about modern chains but the one on my son's Kawasaki is of the 'O' ring sealed type so I guess the auto oilers are more to do with lubricating the 75hp chain/sprockets interface rather than lubricating the chain internally. Anyway, there's not so much force on my gentlemanly-driven 16 hp G3LS sprockets.
Last edited by SPRIDDLER on Thu Jul 29, 2021 5:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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56G80S
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by 56G80S »

Well, I ordered one of the oilers that Duncan linked to. I'll fit it on the Yamaha in the first instance, that has the "O" ring type chain. Yamaha recommend chain removal, cleaning and lubrication every 400 miles. That's nonsense. There are also fierce comments about not using split links, there's a suggestion that they are "not strong enough". This also seems a tad odd, as the pins and side plates are just the same; surely the only problem would be dafties fitting the spring clip the wrong way?

In the past I used "Linklyfe" and still have a can of it. I used the technique that Mick D has previously described but prefer to use paraffin for cleaning. As I mentioned earlier, the pig nose MZ two stroke had a fully enclosed rear chain and needed almost no attention at all withg the most minimal wear.

It's all part of my plan to do more miles on the Matchless now retired, probably starting nest Easter.

Johnny B
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by Mick D »

Hi Johnny

Great plan to do more miles, enjoy your retirement ;)

Unless you are going for mega trips it may be more economical to budget for a set of sprockets and a chain rather than a chain oiler system - my 61 G3 is still on it's original sprockets, (lost the chain over many moves), and as a teenager I certainly didn't look after things :)

Lubing with an oil can between trips will be more than I ever did and more controllable than an oiler.

The only reason to fit a chain link spring clip closed end in the direction of rotation is to stop it being dislodged should something unexpected occur, in my opinion.

Regards Mick
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