Chain oilers

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alanjennings
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by alanjennings »

Most chain oilers are more trouble than they are worth! The best one I had fitted to the swinging arm and had a chamber fed from a reservoir with a ball bearing inside it, as you accelerated it let oil thru onto the chain, but when stationary did not drip!! The m.z chaincase was good but not suitable for high power bikes, or so an east german factory mechanic told me.A leaky gearbox or a good spray is the simplest! Or, dare I mention motor guzi's solution!?
Alan [Morini] Jennings
56G80S
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by 56G80S »

Mick D - I just always fit them that way, it's what I was taught to do by a successful AJS privateer racer. I'm already changing the gearbox output sprocket and plan to match that with a new chain and replacement rear sprocket (still using the one from acquisition in 1970's - this does nothing for chain life). I just wanted to explore revenue money saving!

Alan - I rebuilt the Burman B52, new bearings, bushes, seals. I only expect seepage from kickstart and gear lever which I didn't give as much attention to. This won't help the chain. G80S - high power? I wish!

Long way to go before I'll be doing anything about this on the Matchless, it was just idle musing. But I will have something in place for the alternative Alternative on the Yam. Give everyone a giggle.

Johnny B
Groily
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by Groily »

There is so much to be said for rear chain enclosures, and yet, as suggested, they don't have aesthetic appeal (and can be awkward so-and-sos to get on and off). I've had 2 machines with full enclosures - an Ariel VH 50 years ago nearly, and a 650SS Norton dommie, currently. With enclosures, life is long and adjustment is rare, no road debris to turn into grinding paste I suppose. But they aren't pretty, and in some cases restrict tyre choices - I say that because a TT100 won't go on the Norton, fouls on one of the fastener mounts for the enclosure, so the guard is temporarily off until the offending tyre is replaced again by an Avon Roadrider probably. Which won't take long as TT100s last about 5 minutes it seems these days. :shock: :shock:

With ref to split links, very rare to have one fail, but it can happen. A mate lost one on a very well-maintained Beesa a few weeks back for no obvious reason. On my one near-modern, a 21 year old Yamaha XJR, I replaced chain and sprockets at 30K miles with the factory sprocket and chain kit, which is endless. The dealer offered me a soft link and said that's what they used on customer jobs, but he strongly advised against a split link. Notwithstanding, I did it the factory approved way and dropped the swing arm. That would be a painful approach on pretty well any classic, but on moderns with taper rollers and simple construction combined with outboard final drive sprocket, is actually just a couple of hours' spannering. (Quicker than changing a set of spark plugs on one of them!)
When things start slinging out 100 bhp plus, seems to me best to accept the pain and follow the maker's thoughts on some of these things. With 20K miles on the replacement, I've only adjusted it a couple of times. Oiled with modern aerosol sticky-oil 'bomb', and cleaned/rinsed with their sister product now and then.
Mick D
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by Mick D »

Hi

I have the 'fully enclosed rear chainguard', (FERC), on my Ariel FH:
FERC.png
It is a bit of a faff to fit, (the gearbox sprocket has to be removed to install the front section :x ), and fitting the chain involved lots of rods, hooks, mechanical fingers and string :roll: :roll: , but I don't think it looks too bad and it will certainly protect the chain.

Regards Mick
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Groily
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by Groily »

And it's 'correct' Mick, on a very pretty bike. Lovely thing, and certainly isn't ugly with FERC in place.
WIsh I still had my VH which had an alloy barrel and stuff but - as very foolish young people will - I swapped mine for a disgusting go-faster café racer Beesa twin . . . which prompty exploded (of course!)
peter ranson
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by peter ranson »

I have chain oilers on my modern Triumphs , a scott oiler on one and a Tutoro on the other . The Scott oiler was fitted from new on my Sprint ST 1050 and the chain and sprockets lasted 36000 miles ! The best I got without was 12000 miles .I would not be without one now.
56G80S
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by 56G80S »

Thanks a lot for the information and differing points of view, it's been really interesting for me how very different these views are.

I'll see how it all goes on the Yamaha and report back. The cheap option should arrive this week although swamped with other things going on so may not fit it straight away. I plan to keep it really simple with the reservoir as close to the delivery point (planned to be over the front sprocket but we'll see) with a simple clear "plastic" tube to deliver drips. Nothing that will seriously affect the chain if it comes adrift!

I'd look to set the needle regulator off the motorcycle first, perhaps erring on the side of too little to start.

Johnny B
g5wqian
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by g5wqian »

i dont use any oilers , i just use either WURTH HHS2000 or RECA LONG LUBE to lube my chains , only need to turn wheel and give it a squirt around the outer chain and all good .
its an adhesive oil and sticks to anything it touches , great for chains .

.
https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-s ... gI63vD_BwE

ian
56G80S
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by 56G80S »

Just for clarity, on the Yamaha I use the excellent and cheap chain wax products from Lidl and Aldi. I don't leave it to run dry.

Heading for belt and braces here.

Johnny B
56G80S
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Re: Chain oilers

Post by 56G80S »

Update, the oiler arrived from the far East a while ago but I've just carried out a test and will post some pics later.

I used a spare holder for caravan electrics in a vice and put the oiler output stem in one of the holes, filled with SAE140 and set the needle valve. After a bit of experiment I thought I had it about right. Went away for 2.5 hours and it had used about an 10-15% of it's capacity, dropping oil into a tub at about a drip every 3-4 minutes. Flicking up the lever on the needle valve does stop the "flow", cascade? of SAE140 treacle.

Next, I'll fit it on the Yamaha before the trip to Woodthorpe - what could go wrong?

Johnny B
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